Fun sustained face climing. Highly recommended!

Dr. Giggles

Stuart Little

Delivery Charge

Lumberjack

Screaming Deamons

Free Booty

Spanish Omelette

Mr. Solo

Ferocious Flo

Hidden Treasure

Chimney Sweep

The Devil Made Me Do It

Frequent Flyer

Squeeze Play

The Jester

Tendon Teaser

Waynes Blue Eyes

Reciprocity

Moon Line

Afternoon's Hashbrown

Cracker Jack Crack

Electric Skeletons

Earth Angel

Face climb, between 'The Jester' and 'Dr. Giggles'.

Face climb start. Midway you can use a crack on the right.

Great short and pumpy route. May be best to walk off since the anchors are really far back on the top of the formation making for an almost impossible rope drag when lowering off. If you want to top-rope this or the 5.11 to the left of it I would suggest hiking to the top and bringing a long piece of webbing - long enough to clear the edge.

Starting is the hardest part, climb sloping pockets with good feet to first bolt, the rest of the way is striat forward, climb past several more bolts to rings

Climb the vertical seam crux to easier climbing above. After moving through easier climbing in a crack, move onto the arete for the final moves, eventually finishing at a two bolt anchor.

Climb the arete to the right of Lumberjack. A small bulge midway up is the crux. Lots of good stances to contemplate the next moves.

Hand crack climbing with pretty good feet too.

Start on run out, but easy ground (5.6).  I started in a seam to the left of the main face.  Clip the first bolt and move onto the steeper face.  The face is steep but has big holds for the area.  Finish with a fun move over a bulge.

Much more interesting and enjoyable than it appears at the bottom. Face divided by some horizontal breaks. Nice cruxy little bulge at top. A good warm up route.

Open book corner crack chimney in the Universe Wall area of 'The Throne'. Although the route has some loose rock, they chimney style climbing is lots of fun. Please wear a helmet if you're going to climb or belay this one!

3 Bolt face/arete with horizontal cracks. 2 bolt rap (Karabin guide description). 

  This route has been extended to the top of the cliff with an extra 3(?) bolts.

A sub-5.11 start using a bit of crack and then the business starts.  The crux is after the second bolt.  Very thin, very steep and sustained, and kind of runout to the next bolt.  Then it eases it off considerably toward the anchor.

Face climbing just right of the easily spotted Crackerjack Crack.

Really enjoyable face climbing. Good finger pockets to start. Climb past a horizontal crack. Thin in the middle (crux) and over the bulge with an easy finish.

Bolted face climb in the Universe Wall section of 'The Throne'. There is some rotten rock here and a lead fall could cause the climber to hit the opposite climbing wall. Wear a helmet!

I found the route to have 2 tough spots, one right off the start, and the crux was coming out over the bulge above the last horizontal crack.

Fun little trad lead. Difficulty is fairly consistent throughout. It may be slightly easier than rated.

Small one and two finger pockets up a bulge.  Nice gritty rock. Crux is getting to the 3rd bolt.

Climb face on small pockets, crimps, and smears. There is no distinct crux, but multiple difficult moves.  Due to the sustained nature, it might feel harder than the given grade.  The climbing is very good though.

This is the northern section of the western slope of Upper Devils Canyon, as specified in Marty Karabin's guides. Several easier to moderate routes are here and the area seems to be popular with climbers. This includes everything from Screaming Demons (5.11a) north to Free Booty (5.9)

Description

Protection

Routes in The Throne/Universe Wall