Not to be confused with the one-move wonder at Blair Woods, this hideous problem is really not worth it. It is dirty, condition dependent, tiny, a little sharp, contrived, and climbs even worse than it looks. 

  Sit start on the base of the very short arete with both hands on dirty, sloping nothings and an awkward right heel. Work your way up the short arete with mossy holds and slippery feet and finish the love up with a beached whale into the dirt. A candidate for the worst problem in the park.

No One Knows

Broken Piercing

Blue Devil

Dirt Devil

Full Moon Fever

Red Devil

Sit-start the base of the left-leaning arete. Pull-on with some slick feet and body-tension and follow the arete up and left until jugs can be reached!

Sit start the short left-leaning arete on some juggy pinches. Make a few moves up the arete before figuring out which side you want to mantle on. This problem provides a good intro to arete-tension for those gyms\ rats who need their finger buckets and crimps in order to climb a route.

Sit start with the right hand on a bad sloping pinch on the arete feature. Find a small micro left-hand sidepull, and a foot before pulling onto the wall and jumping out left to the other arete. Keep compressing both aretes before moving up to a hollow jug flake for the topout.

A super hard mantle testpiece. Start at the lip of the roof on a nice shelf feature. Mantle the shelf and somehow reach up to the next lip of the boulder. A tiny thumbdercling could potentially be quite useful!

Start on the left side sitting down. The is a good foot way to the left and very slopey holds heading up right. Make a few moves right before popping big to a decent arete way out right. Bear hug a few moves until you can gain a hollow jug and climb on top. 

  Sloper skills with a side of explosive power will be the recipe for this little number.

This area is somewhat hidden in the talus-field. The boulders are smaller but well worth the effort of the approach.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Red Devil Area