This is a really fun line on the elegant L Face. It is the obvious line on the face...it just begs to be climbed, so much so that sometimes you just forget to put on your climbing shoes and you dance up. 

  Take the left-facing, wide, layback crack. You may be able to jam it, but it seemed less facile. Fire up for 3/4 the way.  Get a great rest. Fire up and left for the top. 

Note: the bottom part of this route has become quite slippery due to paint. It may exceed the 5.6 rating for some.

Layback

Balance

Lurch

Lurch Direct

Ladder Line

Teepee

Manic Depressive

Transfusion

This is one of the best route in the Quarries. It has nice, steepish climbing and is quite sustained cruxes at the top and bottom. 

  Crank out the start 5.11, then move right a little, straight up past a tough laybacky section on face holds to the top.

Follow the easiest route up the big blocky formation in the middle of J Wall.

Start to the left of the massive white paint drip. Climb up right to the paint drip folling the diagonal grove in the wall. Then follow the long, shallow groove. Long reach at the end of the climb.

Lurch Direct has slopey climbing with some fun, angled slopers. Climb left, then right, then left again of the arete next to Ladder Line, basically.

Move up a diagonal undercling that trends left, but take an early exit so that your route goes mostly straight up the wall. Don’t follow the Layback crack/flake to its terminus. After exiting the undercling, go for a little shelf about 2/3 the way up the wall. Get yourself up there on that shelf, and breath. Then continue on thin hands and feet, making another layback move on a really good hand hold, and go for gold. It’s a burly finish but well worth the picnic basket waiting on top.

Climb thin moves up the middle of the block face to cracks and edges on the flake face. Finish up right.

Climb the left-leaning undercling and finish up and to the left.

This is a very nice wall with a terrific layback, which can be led. There is a fair bit of loose rock above this face. There is a large ring anchor 10 feet back from the edge of the face on right side. There is a large ring anchor 15 feet back from the edge on the left side. There is a bolt near the top of Layback. To its right is the M Face.L->R:A1. Transfusion, 9, 1p, 25', TR.A2. Teepee traverse, 9.A3A2. Teepee, 8+, 1p, TR.B1A2. Teepee Variation, 7.B2. Tepee Erect, 10+.B3. Lurch, 7+, 1p, 50', TR.CB3. Lurch Direct, 10, 1p, 50', TR.D. Ladder Line, 10 or 11, 1p, 50', TR.E1. Layback, 6, 1p, 50', gear or TR.E2. Outside Chance, 10.F1. Manic Depressive, 8, 1p, 50', TR.F2. Balance, 4, 1p, 50', TR.G. Graffitti (unfinished?), 12?H. More, 9.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in J Wall (aka L Face)