The climb originally ended at the ledge (5.11a), but the extension continues up and left by clipping the anchor (use a long sling) and then punches out the bulge above on horrible crimps to anchors at the top of the formation.

Long and technical in nature, this packs a lot of crimping into it's length despite being broken up by the ledge midway. The extension is still cleaning up some, so don't be surprised if some small holds break off.

Finger Crimping Good

Bacon Taco

Filet of Sole

Smokin' the Rock

After the Gold Rush

Black Powder

Powderhorn

Triple Decker

Fever Pitch

Testosterone Crack

Smoking Gun

Rawhide

Dirty Captain Freeman

Drug of Choice

Cali Gold

Gunsmoke

Narcotic Prayer

Long Branch

Joe’s Dilemma

This rarely done toprope problem climbs the rounded arete just left of

Finger Crimping Good

.

The moves on this climb are decent, but the rock quality is only so-so despite cleaning - which means it probably won't get done much.

This is the three bolt line on the left corner of the Southeast face of Gunsmoke Wall. Bacon Taco is a relatively little-known standout in the Pinnacles, a true diamond in the rough.

Start below the small roofs, moving up and left to gain the first bolt. The moves here are a bit dicey - have your belayer give you a spot before clipping and watch your head under the roof!

The crux comes next, moving up and right to a good stance to clip the second bolt. The second roof is an easy pull, leading to the third bolt which protects the last of the moderate moves. Finish up over easier climbing to the anchors shared with After the Gold Rush.

A spicy lead and good, solid climb for the grade.

Right facing corner to left of

Testosterone Crack

.

Thin and somewhat awkward moves off the ground are the crux and once past the 2nd bolt it's gets much easier as you climb to the top of the initial section. Higher, move onto another section of rock passing a crack (Black Powder) and finish with a spectacular lieback/mantle directly onto the ledge with anchors.

Another nice TR for beginners and moderate climbers. Start as for

Fever Pitch

, but walk the ramp all the way to the far left end. You can also start this climb direct, coming off the ground to gain the left end of the ramp, adding a nice sequence of 5.7 moves to the climb. From the ramp, head straight up over small holds to gain the headwall. Pull over the headwall (the crux) left of the black streaks (Cali Gold) and finish at the anchor for Bacon Taco. If you want to try After the Gold Rush but aren't up to leading the .10a, simply move your TR setup from Fever Pitch, up and left over easy ground, to the anchors for Bacon Taco.

This climbs a nice hand crack between

Powderhorn

on the left and

Smokin' the Rock

.

Enjoyable moves and great protection are to be found on this moderate crack which ends at a spacious ledge with anchors.

Climb a ways to the first bolt and then power up (crux) past some underclings to reach a ledge. The middle of the route is broken and fairly easy, but the route steepens near the top, offering a few more interesting moves on patina edges before the anchors.

Climbs an obvious left-facing corner system past several ledges. The crux is at the top and not especially fun.

Huge holds, great rock and lots of protection make this ideal for a first lead, something I've witnessed numerous times on this route.

If you don't like the bolts, then solo it like was done on the first ascent.

This route climbs the obvious right-facing corner left of

Bacon Taco

via stemming, liebacking and even some face moves and goes at a much easier grade than inital appearances might suggest.

The route was orginally done without any bolts and by climbing the crack without stemming (5.11 but contrived). Years later the line was bolted by climbers thinking they were doing the FA and with the discovery that a little stemming lowers the grade has become a semi-popular route in the area.

Thin and somewhat tricky moves up the block gain the arete and then the top of the block where the climb then joins Gunsmoke for it's bolt and finishing moves to the anchors.

Deceptively tricky moves lead up the face, eventually gaining the security of the arete. Finish up past the last bolt of Gunsmoke to shared anchors with that route.

It starts in a dihedral, then onto an arete with features.

Located on the west face, just to the left of a large left-facing corner system with the route

Gunsmoke

.

This is the right of two thin face routes and climbs a short, thin crack to a slightly overhanging, thin and crimpy face. Not especially long, but the angle combined with the nature of the holds make for a challenging combination.

After setting the rope up on Fever Pitch, you'll want to do this TR.  It is noticeably more challenging than the 5.3; a great introduction to steep climbing for the beginner.  Start as for Fever Pitch but move left along the ramp, about half-way.  From here, move up over big edges, surmounting the headwall (the crux) between the two black streaks.  From the ledge, move up and then right to the chain anchors, shared with Fever Pitch.

Climb the obvious left-facing corner system just right of

Drug of Choice

utilizing the plentiful face holds and then continue past one bolt on the face above to anchors on a large ledge.

Climbs a sharp arete down low to a ledge then up the two bulges above to anchors at the top. Good movement in the first half but the upper portion is broken and much easier.

Scramble up to the base of the thin crack, clip the first bolt, then get ready to crank hard. The crux begins after a bomber finger jam and involves opposing gastons, jams, and a big reach out right after clipping the third bolt. From here on, follow good holds to the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Gunsmoke Wall