The second and Third Pitches are the bees knees.

The climbing is amazing, this will be the first multi pitch on the Left Reptilian wall and goes to the top.  The first pitch was very dirty and we successfully removed some large loose blocks to make it safe.

P1 is 5.8ish and ok climbing.  Climb to a detached pillar.  Mount the pillar and belay at  2 bolts.

P2  is 5.10 and superb! finger crack to a flared pod and back to a finger hand crack.

P3 is  also excellent  5.10 with a short AO section.  P3 has been freed by Chris Dickson at solid 5.11

P4 is 5.9ish  4 bolts to the top with bolted anchor.

April O'neil

Stealth Belly

No More Tears

Vertical flu

Don Iguana

Anaconda

Seventh Serpent

Shed Your Skin

Half snake, half chicken

Gecko

Triceratops Right

Cobra

Wiggle

Splinter

Unnamed

Unnamed Splitter

Climb up some soft rock into a left-facing corner.  Starts out fingers and then continues with mostly thin hands. A couple wider sections make it interesting.  A few rest ledges are available on both walls.

An isolated left facing enduro corner that is actually quite a distance to the right of Reptilian Wall but can be included due to a lack of anywhere else to put it.  This one is good, if you happen to be in the area...

Start in the off fingers crack and work your way through tight hands till you get the left wall with your foot, Establish yourself under the roof through small gear and sporty moves. Pass the roof and get into the offwidth make a few burly moves to the chains! Great route

This is a splitter crack with a switch at the start with some huecos up higher. A fun "sandy classic".

I have only done the first pitch of this climb which is a mixed bag of off fingers and tight hands into a chimney protected with a bolt to the anchor... kinda kicking myself for not doing the second pitch... keep your wits about you in the chimney tho there is a bolt you might wanna bring your nuts ahah

There may not be a lot of routes nearby but the Seventh Serpent is one of the classics of Long Canyon and worth the hike for one pitch.  The route starts in a right facing corner with a short section of offwidth followed by hands and thin hands.  About 25' up the corner ends and the crack wanders up the wall trending left through a few large pods.  The climbing is varied with numerous rests, face holds and some short sections of splitter crack.  Be cautious when getting to the anchor, some of the rock is soft and loose but not hard to climb around.

There is also a second pitch that was added later and supposedly clocks in somewhere in the 5.12 range.  Looked like thin hands to fingers and it goes through a couple small roofs.  Probably about 60' to 70' long with rap hangers for an anchor.  Will update this information next time I go up to try it.

This route faces south but there is a large corner to its left so it gets some afternoon shade.

Easy face climbing up to an offset finger crack.  Follow the offset crack as it steepens and switches a few times before a thin, exciting finish (#1 TCU).  Good gear, fun climbing.

Start with hands up a right-facing corner use the stem box to get up to the small OW then to the anchor, really the only thing to warm up on for the serpent

Good warmup, climb right-facing corner with an offwidth on the left wall and a finger crack on right wall.

Left-facing corner with great hands gets you to a ledge, then climb past a pod to a short offwidth. Big hands to fists to a wide move to get on top of the pillar

Cobra is Quarter of a Man's big, bad brother. This route will get you pumped.

Start up some soft, hollow rock moving into a right-facing flake that takes tips-sized gear (smaller than yellow alien) (11ish). Rock onto a sloping ledge and clip a bolt, then continue with more balancy, bouldery moves (11+ish) into the bottom of the corner, where the rock is pretty crappy. A med-large nut or two can be placed above the bolt in a finger slot, but please don't fall here. The rock to this point is less than stellar.

Place a #1 and bust up the left facing corner with .5s that go into steep .75s. Eventually the .75s widen into very sustained black metolius/#2 friends for the next 90+ feet past multiple bulges with very few rests. Catch your breath, plug a piece with a quickdraw in the roof, and then bust out the roof on .75s and #2 friends to a cruxy lip encounter that will be quite strenuous for all but the very small-handed. It's not over until you are clipping the chains.

This route is definitely harder than Quarter of a Man. 12-/12 seems fair.

Watch out for a few loose blocks at the topout.

This route will be hard if you can't get thin hands in #2 friends. I could barely get thin hands in the crack.

We lowered with an 80m rope with a few meters left over.

CAUTION: The left side of the corner seems to be formed by a hollow plate 1-2" thick on the outside. Either place your cams deeper than usual or place gear more frequently. The rock on the left sounds pretty hollow until about 2/3 of the way up the route! I did not fall so I cannot vouch for the integrity of the gear.

This route is on the far right side of the wall. It's the box-shaped slot with small cracks in the back. Tricky.

A fun but sort of spooky route. The most important reason I'm posting this is to alert others of the danger of climbing in the crack on the left(that doesn't reach the ground). On the FA I switched into this crack and placed a #3 camalot a few feet above the anchors that I ended up installing and climbed a body length above it only to feel the entire flake flex about 1/2". I got scared so I scuttled back down to my piece, took and placed the anchors. The climb is never run out but I wouldn't recommend protecting or jamming too hard in the crack on the left(or using it at all!).

A zigzagging start right facing then through some blocky section then changes to left facing finishing on hands

Start in shallow left facing corner with fingers, then go past a short wide section, then get over block (seems solid, crux), then head up the long hands splitter. A 70m rope can get you can you down with minor shenanigans.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Reptilian Wall