A long moderate slab climb.  Pass 10 bolts to a bolted anchor.  The best slab climb on the arm! In the Scar this climb may be called Limp Hangover, however the FA party called it Accident Victim.

Accident Victim

Whiskey

Ravens Reach

Mean and Nasty

Unknown 1

Scotch

Progression

Scotch 15' left of the shrubbery and climb up form the scree on to the arete.  Follow the slab to the first bolt 10' up then continue straight up the face on crimpy, positive  holds and fun easy moves climb around the right side of a bulge.  Then follow the arete to the anchor.  Clips are well spaced so this may not be a good first lead yet it is a fun route. 

  LOCATION   This is the left most route at the main crag.

Another slab route on the main formation.  Suffers from very odd bolting...I would suggest top roping after leading Limp Hangover with a bolt at top as a directional.

Ravens Reach starts at a roof with a useless belay bolt located 2' off the ground.  Start up broken rock past a small roof.  Use an extendable to cut down on rope drag.  Then climb a long left trending bolt line that follow climbable fetchers all the way to the anchor.  I found the crux to be near the end of the route.  You can lower straight to the ground and half a second clean the draws. 

  LOCATION 

  This is the middle climb on the upper wall at the main craging area.

Mean and Nasty climbs the upper face located 100' left of the main Red Gage Wall.  Climb horrible rock on steep rock.  Clip bolts up a face with dangerous flakes till you get to a anchor at the top that requires slings or webbing to equalize.  To descend rap the route with two ropes or the better way down is a long walk off. 

  LOCATION   Scramble up the scree to the base of the route located 80' above the highway and past a rusty DOT seismic bolt.  Try and not knock any rock on to the drivers below.

From the gully clip a shinny ss bolt 8 feet up the wall an climb past a good rail.  Cut left over the arete and hold a 45 degree angle left across the top of the entire upper wall.  Don't get sucked into the loose rocks over head.  Follow the gear on the more solid fetchers.  Lower down from the anchor and have a second clean the draws on this climb. 

  LOCATION   This climb starts from a small gully on the right side of the crag.

Progression starts at the belay bolt three feet off the ground but it is best not to anchor in to avoid any possible loose rock falling down.  Climb into the dihedral then cut right on the face following bolts to a couple ledges.  The upper half to the route is fun and steep with a great roof crux on thin holds.  Pull over the lip on a jug and finish on a exciting push to the anchor. 

  LOCATION   Progression is the left route on the upper face and starts directly under the anchor.

An area right along the highway that is known for its long slab climbs.  Fun area if you can get down with the highway noise.  Some of the longer single pitchers on the highway.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Red Gate