This is such a cool line it has to go! This route remains undone but it's open for business. Climb through beautifully sculpted rock to a ledge and the hanging arete above. From the ledge the climbing becomes harder, and suddenly impossible feeling when the arete becomes useless and the slab remains blank....for 8 feet. The holds resume again as one moves left for an airy little 5.10 dance on the slabby arete. One good hold in the blank section and this climb would go at 11a/b ***, but unfortunately it's probably v8 slab. Hop on it! A first ascent awaits the best slab climber around.

 There are a couple redeeming qualities of the route and one is that you can sport aid past one bolt and still climb the airy arete above to the anchor at 5.10. Also, the beginning portion of the route leads to a ledge where another little 5.10 called Hide and Seek can be accessed. It leads to the same anchor as the arete. Climb the first 3 bolts to the ledge, move right about 20 feet and get on it! Once you're in the anchor you can work the impossible arete or climb a variety of short top rope variations on the featured face. A decent amount of climbing can be had from this one anchor, and it's the best way to get back to ground/trail level. Rapping a tree is the other option to get off the ledge.

Undecided Arete

Hide and Seek

Prego

Bumping Gums

Sombrero De Droga

Button Man

The Godfather

Follow fun climbing through the initial dihedral for 3 bolts to some ledges that lead up to the offwidth. Climb up and right on a slab until you can get started into a layback in the gaper crack out to your left. Layback past a few bolts to an anchor at the top. Top it out for full enjoyment.   Some may disapprove of what I've done here....bolting a crack. I thought of calling it Gift Horse, but went for the lighthearted name instead. Getting to lay this thing back safely truly is a gift.

This is a quality little route with great rock and good movement with a crux in the middle. Once in the anchor, use it to toprope some variations on the face, and/or try the project on the left arete, before lowering all the way to the ground.

A nice line that weaves safely around an arete. Pretty cruxy right off the get go. Find a way to get the slopey holds near the first bolt before doing a crunchy move to better holds. Nice rock to a rounded ledge at the arete. Do a techy, possibly cruxy if you're short, little hop for a horizontal with a cactus on the right side.....you've been warned. Finish up using the arete and/or face. All cruxes are more difficult for shorter people, except for maybe the last bolt, but still good.

This line follows a flaring finger crack in a dihedral, with a parallel seam that provides good feet. Once out of the dihedral, shoot up and right to a rail that leads to a webbing anchor.

Climb past two bolts through a confusing, overhanging, blocky, flaring, layback thingy to a ledge. From the ledge, climb the line of bolts up the featured green slab with a seam in it. Techy face climbing up high. Not the best warm up but worth doing.

Named for the one and only Godfather of Dacite, Colin Cox, who first pioneered dacite sport climbing in Flagstaff. Colin has developed many crags and classic routes in and around town. Big thanks for his efforts!

Start up the layback flake passing three bolts to an obvious stance. As per classic dacite, this is where the line wanders a bit. Instead of climbing straight up to the fourth bolt make your way left following a crack/flake to a small pocket. From the pocket move back right through a litte bit of exposure to the arête and a good stance to clip the bolt around the corner. Climb up through the techy crux to the big hole and ride the arête to the summit. “Don’t forget to top it out!” -ccox

For a cool photo-op you can stand on the small ledge right on the top of the overhang/arête!

The first collection of routes you will reach in Upper Middle Elden. Area gets sun around 1:30pm but The Godfather itself doesn’t really see any sun.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Godfather Area