This truly fun climb goes completely on gear except for its bolted rap anchors.  The first pitch is typical moderate queen creek face climbing protected with occasional horizontals and discontinuous crack systems.  The stellar second pitch, however, is a different story: it is a wavy crack system that ends with a committing, technically challenging bulge.  Those with a cool head and solid trad skills will find good gear protecting this exciting crux.  It is a memorable LDE lead. 

  1) On the NW corner of the formation, climb the right-most crack to a small ledge.  Continue up and to the right of thin, discontinuous cracks.  Finish up the pitch on a large ledge at a two bolt anchor (5.8, 90').   

  2) Step right to a crack running up the middle of the north face.  The crack protects nicely using a wide range of cams.  The crack ends below a 5.10 bulge.  Pull the bulge protected by tricky but solid gear.  (5.10a/b, 70').  

  From here either rappel the route or traverse south to finish on the final pitch of The Shmotem Pole.

Up the Hatch

This large formation is plainly visible from the west side of the canyon and has a number of route possibilities on it.  The FA of this feature was via Up the Hatch on the north face.  On the south side of the Hatch the Shmotem Pole extends another 100 higher.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Hatch