Stem up the corner. A little vegetated, but good gear and fun, moderate moves.

Here Come the Jugs

Gravitational Mass

Baby Face

Cosmic Amazement

Siderial Motion

Climb the gently overhanging face on good holds past 3 bolts (crux after the 2nd bolt).

A surprisingly pleasurable climb that runs just right of the easy crack climb in the left corner.    It is helpful to be tall to clip the first bolt without getting too far in to the "I don't want to hit the ground zone" (but the bolt could be clipped by using the crack to the left). Another committing series of moves gains the second bolt where the climbing eases a bit while you climb up to the small horizontal crack, place a micro cam or two, and puzzle through the last couple of tricky moves to the top.      Classic south buttress style climbing, low angle, on your feet, but not strict friction.

The trick is protecting in a way that doesn't use your intended hand hold on the crux.... I used a finger-sized cam in the key, hand hold which left room for the hand.... 

  Basically you start up a delicate corner till you need to move left to get in to the layback corner.... At this point you fish in a piece of gear and move left using a very uncomfortable handjam (though I've heard of other ways to do it, the jam feels secure, if painful)....   After that, it's a breeze up the corner with good gear, good jams, and cruiser layback moves (this section makes you wish the route was longer) to the top.... Belay from gear, or way back to a good tree....

I haven't climbed it yet but thought folks would like to know what it was.    Start on Cosmic Amazement then break left following 5 bolts (that are in horrible condition) along an obvious slanting feature then up to the top of the cliff.

This is the 40ft tall, mini crag perched on top of Whitehorse's South Buttress right above the climb Inferno (5.8)....   A cool micro crag, it houses 8 or so routes that see relatively few ascents.... Many routes have been over grown with lichen, but some are worth a side trip after summiting one of the South Buttress classics....   The best and most popular route is Cosmic Amazement (5.9), a tricky and thought-provoking route for its diminutive size.... Folks also speak well of the steep route Gravitational Mass (5.11b)...perhaps with a little cleaning the other routes would be more worth while as well.... 

  So, after coming up one of the longer routes and you are thirsty for another pitch try out The Cosmic Crag....

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 1. The Cosmic Crag