Short offwidth section, to hand crack.  When crack opens up, head left onto face.

Driven by Fear

Fax Crack

Warpath Arete (Name?)

Unknown RFC

Hard Drive

Center Crack

Lone Justice

Unknown Right Route

Bits and Bights

Warpath

Start up low-angle chimney until you can reach out to first bolt above bulge.  Climb face right past another bolt and into the handcrack.  Up the handcrack until you can step left into finger crack.  Up finger crack or, more accurately, up plates to side of crack, using crack for pro.  Crack runs out 12 feet or so shy of the anchors, but climbing is easy there.

This route was tricky to follow. The first pitch runs up the arete, to the left of Warpath, but probably takes the right side of the arete. I went up the left side of the arete and the footing was first ascent bad (lichen, loose rock, etc). It couldn't have been harder than 5.9, but the only protection was a couple of chickenheads, bad ones, for 100 feet. That pitch gives the R rating, maybe X. The second pitch was better, good protection, and the whole route gets better from there. Interesting finishing pitch. In summary, the route was adventurous and sketchy, would not recommend to a friend. Also, do not forget your rope and use your tag line. Do not do that... . Also, climb sober.

Start about 40 feet right of Hard Drive below a white, right-facing corner. Climb the corner, eventually moving up and left to a pine tree with slings and rap rings. Rappel from the pine tree back to the ground with a single 60m rope. The route maybe more like 5.7 than 5.6.

Start about five feet right of Driven by Fear at the base of twin cracks. Climb the right-leaning crack which turns vertical and passes a thin section (crux, C3 cams for pro). Continue up the widening crack until it becomes a chimney, then climb plates on the face just right. Go through a gap between two huge boulders. On the right is an anchor.Rappel with a single 60m rope from the anchor down to a pine tree with slings and rap rings. Another rappel with a single 60m rope down a white, right-facing corner (unknown 5.6 route) will get you to the ground.

Sustained OW/ hand crack that splits the lower center of Warpath dome. Choose your own adventure 1-2 pitches to the top from the low angle top of the crack. Really great jams to be had in this beauty.

One bolt to protect the bouldery move at start, small gear stoppers or aliens leads to a over hanging hand crack up to a #2 Camelot.

This route is located on a narrow buttress roughly 120 feet to the right of Driven by Fear. The buttress is out in the open to the right Hard Drive and Unknown RFC.Climb the front of the narrow buttress past at least four bolts to an anchor. Difficulty grade is approximate.

Start about 20 feet to the right of the RFC in a clearing. Climb up and left along a thin crack until it ends. Move up and right (bolt) to easier ground. Go up and right past two more bolts to an anchor.

This climb offers some creative crack climbing, some aesthetic dike hiking, some moderate slab climbing, and a bit of steep face.  The protection on some of the slab and face could be a little exciting. 

  Note that the pitches I describe here don't jibe with those of Kerry '97.  I think he must have conflated two distinct ways of breaking the route into pitches. 

  P1. Straight up the crack, which varies in width.  Then jog right at the top via some face moves, and belay just below a second, flared crack.  The jog right is generally considered the crux, about 5.9-. 

  P2. Diagonal up left though some plates and follow a dike.  Eventually pass a two-bolt anchor (from another route) and, wherever it feels right, head up poorly protected but moderate slab.  Belay at a large but hidden crack.  Around 5.6. 

  P3. Climb up from the crack, following a line of smallish horns as the angle steepens.  After the crack ends, the horns are your only protection for a while.  Clip an old bolt and pull onto some lower angle rock.  Angle right a bit to the top.  Belay at the two-bolt anchor from another route, or roll your own.  About 5.7 or 5.8. 

  Just in case you're wondering: I have it on good authority ;) that a 60m rope will NOT reach from the two-bolt anchor midway on P2 to the the two-bolt anchor at the top.

Warpath Dome is described in Bob Kerry's 1997 guide Backcountry Rockclimbing in Southern Arizona.  It doesn't get much traffic despite having the classic route Warpath. 

  The main face of this granite dome faces west, and gets shade until the afternoon.  The rock quality is good.  The Crackathon Area is on the right/southwest flank of Warpath Dome. 

  The crag itself doesn't have access issues, but the approach could; see below. 

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Warpath Dome