Climb up the large chimney, and then transition to the slabby wall on the left to gain the ledge above. A #4 cam protects the transition moves. Traverse left on the ledge, taking the third crack system you come to (the first is Stuff N Fuckit (5.7) and the second is

Right Stuff

(5.8)). This is the hardest of the 3 crack systems at 5.9.

The second pitch tackles a 5.9 slab with three old bolts that angle up and right. Continue onto a large ledge, walk to the back of a dark slot, and chimney to the top of it. Scramble down to the base of the third pitch of

Destination Unknown

and the infamous offwidth that guards the summit and use it to access the summit and rappel anchor.

Trails of Tropical Lotions

Low Pressure

Right Stuff

Thin Ice

Adrift with the Bajau

Destination Unknown

Fender Route (Water Music)

Toot Suite aka Toot Suit

Blues for Allah

On the north side of Chair Rock. I did the first lead of this, but it was Scott "Zippy" Reynolds who really got the ball rolling on this. It was an old Dave Bell A4 route before Scott got it in his head to free climb it.

It's on the right side and is composed of triple cracks. Like a tiny Shield headwall. The crux is getting from the first crack to the second and is protected by a bolt.

This climb starts to the right of the obvious chimney on the south face. Climb up to the tooth feature, and then lieback a few moves to a jug of sorts. Shake it out, because this is where the fun begins! Climb the overhanging crack out left then back right to the "gut busting lip" as described in the book.  The climb continues on a low angle slab (with sparse pro) to Suntan Ledge.

This climb starts in the massive chimney on the south face. After about 20 feet, head left to a ledge, then jam the obvious hand/fist crack to Suntan Ledge.

Be the first on your block to get a great first ascent.

This is next to the Water Music on the north side of Chair Rock. I led this thing on aid a couple of times and then top roped and then worked on it a total of a dozen times. I got very close to freeing it. Maybe just a move or two short. Never tried to lead it.  I conveniently left for NYC for grad school. I suspect it has been been ignored for years.

I think this could be a great, hard, Platte classic. Short and to the point from beginning to end.

Eds. From Allen Hill, this is distinct from

Thin Ice

.  It also may not have seen a free ascent yet.

This is a short, 2 pitch route on the east face.  Scramble up a gully between The Chair and The Knight.  Go up a wide crack on the left (just left of

Blues for Allah

& just right of a line of 6 bolts) that narrows up to a ledge.  Fire up past 3 bolts to a sling belay, back it up with a #2.5 Friend.  Go through a slot, then boulder up, past 3 old bolts, lieback to a squeeze chimney.  There are some old 1/4" bolts to the right of the chimney.  Rap 80' off the back off bolts.

More and more as I drive towards Deckers, I've been noticing cars parked at the old Top of the World road. Looks like people are walking in. So, here are a few of my favorites.

On the backside (north side) of Chair Rocks is this great old route. Climb the wide crack on the left side, and finish with a great set of face moves protected by a bolt.

Per

Jeremy Hakes

: This route is on the north face of Chair Rocks, the tallest formation on this ranked Jefferson County Peak. The route is on the NE corner, facing north, just east of the large tree. The first 15-20' or so are decent foot/hand jams, but then the crack deepens, widens, and flares as it goes higher. The first pitch is about 170' long. Bring doubles or triples of #3s, 4s, and 5s. No fixed gear exists on P1. About 100' up, a small indentation exists on the climber's right, but it is 2' outside the crack you are climbing. It runs out after about 10'. Then a small indentation crack exists on the climber's left, temping you out of the crack, but no pro exists anywhere but in the crack. It is fairly unenjoyable. The very soft "arete" on your left finally dies into a jug, and then the P1 difficulties are over, the grade dropping to 5.4 or so for the last 20+'. A small belay ledge with a pothole exists below the bolts for P2. Not much to build a belay station with up here. P2 goes at a thin 5.9, but is over in about 10', ending with an awkward mantle move. Someone has removed the last bolt protecting this move. Pull up and over onto some sharp crystals, and head over to the main summit block. Cross the off-width (4th class) below you (another route goes up here, but is an awkward bulging squeeze chimney). Cross onto the main summit and tie into the 4 bolts here.

This is a fun, finger crack on the south side of Chair Rock. It is hard to miss. It starts off a ledge about 80 feet off the ground. You can  either do one of several options as a first pitch (all 5.8ish), or you can scramble up a short chimney crack thing on the left side of the ledge. Enjoy the sun drenched grassy ledge, and if you get motivated, climb the crack. I always thought it was easier than the given grade.

Also of note are two bolt protected face climbs to either side of the crack. If you do all three climbs, it makes for a fun afternoon.

This seems to be a 1 pitch climb that joins the finish as for Low Pressure &

Destination Unknown

.  Start up the gully between Chair Rock and The Knight.  Take the second crack system on the left.  Ascend a moderate crack using fingers to wide hands gear.  A #3 Friend was nice for the belay on Suntan Ledge.  Continue up as for

Destination Unknown

.  Rap 80' off the back off bolts.

The rating came from an old South Platte guidebook.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Chair Rock