From Nichols' guidebook: ""A bizarre climb! Climb the south face of the rib near it's left edge, thread your way through the window, and continue up the steep inside corner on the opposite side to finish up a poorly protected ridge."

The Window

Stepping Razor

Superstructure

Pearly Gates

Squirrel Cage

Cat Crack

Sickle

Volcanic Eruption

Toxic Shock

Rat Crack

Black Corner

Grey Corner

Dol Guldur

In the Presence of God

Appropriate name, as there are often many ample footholds to step up on, but the steepness and variation make for some challenging moves.

Arete between Squirrel Cage and Black Corner.  Start in a small right-facing corner on the left side of the arete.  Some people think the crux is moving around the arete (right to left) about 30 feet up and others think it is near the top.  Both cruxes are a little awkward with barn-door potential without the proper foot work.

Please PM me with details so I can complete.

Great corner system with a layback through the crux that is sustained through the upper 1/3 of the climb.

 According to the Nichols guidebook, the original version of this route was first led by Fritz Wiessner and involved traversing right into black corner instead of finishing with the finger crack. The route as described here is a variation first led by Sam Streibert 30 or so years later. The Fasulo guide book describes and sketches the Streibert variation while giving FA credit to Wiessner.

Start is loose blocks to a great hand / fist crack to the top. Sustained climbing to the crux near the top where the crack thins to fingers. Wonderful crack climbing- tape is reccomended.

Another Amphitheater classic! This route jams up a fist crack after the off-width Squirrel Cage start. Climb the crack to the roof, then move left to follow a crack angling left on the upper face. Fun interesting moves up crimps and jams on a slightly overhanging wall to the ledge below the top of the cliff.

Volcanic Eruption is nestled on the face between Dol Guldur and Cat Crack. Not the most obvious line, but a damn good rock climb nonetheless. Moderate climbing leads to a delicate and reachy V5/6 crux roughly 25 feet up. Get to a decent rest at the first “roof”, and then enjoy ~ 75 feet of sustained traprock technical goodness along a mix of cracks and edges.  -Topo Gigio

Per comments below, its the right side of the face between Rat Crack and Cat Crack

The start on on the right wall of a chimney that rises 1/3 of the climb into an off width. the final moves are hands / fingers to the top. A great climb and a good introduction to chimneys.

This route is somewhat sustained and is a very enjoyable lead or TR. The crux comes for most, especially shorter climbers,  about 15 feet up.

An uneven route that begins with 60 ft of lichen-covered 5.7+ climbing on a somewhat ledge-prone arete and finishes up a steep and exposed finger crack on the face.

Climb the crack with a variety of thin fingers and face holds to the top of the crack, traverse left, go up and back right.  Tricky and sequential, and tough to protect on the lead.  You'll need every trick in the thin crack book.  I am a bit embarrased to be posting this since after many tries I only managed to do this once during the mid 90's shortly after Ken Nichols had made his 1000th ascent of the line!  I gave it the traditional 5.11 grade, but let me say this is a SOLID 5.11.  One might whisper sandbag...

This route ascends the face to the right of Dol Guldur. Hard, technical and sustained 5.12 crimping leads to a ~V7/8 crux about halfway up the route. Climbing gets a bit easier getting to the “roof” and the top. TR is a pain to set up, but well worth it. To the best of my knowledge, it has been sent by only 3 individuals: Sam Slater (FA), J.D.Mackey, and Ken Nichols (questionable – but I have seen him get damn close at age 63). Someday this will be a GREAT lead. -Topo Gigio

Some of the best long routes in Connecticut are in the Ampitheater including Cat Crack (5.10) and Dol Guldur (5.11) Reaching heights of 110', there are a variety of face climbs, chimneys to off widths to fingers and hands- something for everyone. The scenery is incredible, especially in the Fall, when the Ampitheater is best. A great spot for cold weather climbing.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Amphitheater