As with everything on this wall, this one is no gimmie.  Mostly small crisp crimps and a hard crux will keep you guessing and breathing hard.  The 5.11 slabby finish is no joke either.  A good route and an honest test of your finger strength.

Hot Dog

Escape From the Pod

Dances With Cows

Unknown

Sugar Mama

Little Smokey

Kielbasa

Esplanada

Blue Light Special

Bro Job

Super Mama (Direct)

The route starts on some fun small hold crimp/pocket climbing. Make a big move to a big hold and keep it together for the technical top to chains.

AKA "Bolting Blitzkrieg", this is another line where pulling down will only get you so far (like Tutu Man).  Although the back of the crack has some poopy in it, most folks don't grab it as they chimney, stem and otherwise ascend the pod.  After you Escape (crux) great climbing up the crack will leave a smile on your face.

Step on just left of Esplanada using the same starting hold and trend left and upward on tiny edges.  A cruxy section around mid height involves a cryptic sequence with tiny pinches.  Dance your way to the same anchor as Esplanada

Climb the slabby left wall of the RF dihedral. A little dirty nut should clean up nicely with use.

'Sugar Mama' is a brilliant, yet overlooked, technical testpeice on the far left side of the Grasshopper Wall.

Start with a moderate, right angling crack/corner for about 30 feet to gain the wide blue streak above. Move slightly left over the bulge on good holds to reach a cool mailslot jug pocket. Rest here before firing up the remaining 35 feet of difficult, technical climbing, with no rests, all the way to the anchor.

The stone and movement are amazing.

Short and bouldery.  Don't pass this midget by, it's quite fun.  Stick clip, boulder the crux and hold on for the fun ride to the chains.  The starting point feels arbitrary with the blocks you can stand on to skip the first V2'ish moves.  If you are still warming up you may want to reach to the highest biggest holds you can find.

Esplanada involves multiple sequential cruxes and varied climbing, never letting off much.  Starts off with steeper pocket cranking and ends with techincal crimpy slab climbing.  Great moves - once you've read the line correctly.

This Route climbs the obvious blue streak up left side of Grasshopper Wall.  Solid movement on small edges and pockets throughout the route.  The crux move involves a deadpoint to a small edge.  Many people move right after the crux to holds shared with Dances with Cows, which eases the finish a bit.  An amazing route on BLUE stone!!

Okay this is a link-up but it is a very worthy route.  Execute the delicate crimpy intial crux of Slim Jim and make an easy transition to Esplanada at the 5th bolt.  This is right where Esplanada trends right a bit for the second time anyway.  Very good climbing and not really much harder than Esplanada, just graded correctly.

On July 4th, 2008 during the 10th Ten Sleep climbing Festival, I returned to the French Cattle Ranch to add bolts for the direct start to this beautiful line.  The original start, shared with Sugar Mama, traversed in from the left following a crack which peters out as it gains the gold streak at the fifth bolt.  Long moves between amazing pockets and small crimps lead up the remaining six bolts.

Four new bolts go directly up the gold streak to the beginning of the original crux.  Start at the eye level flake and do some thin slab moves at the second bolt.  Then zig zag a bit following the best holds you can find till joining the original line.

The upper section has many hard, long moves up vertical terrain with marginal feet.  I particularly love the "peanut" hold which is a shallow oblong pocket for your index and ring, but too pinched off for the middle.  A pair of good rest holds allow a shake before the undercling and crimp sequence guarding the last bolt before the anchors.

The original guide called this the best line on the wall, and I feel that the direct start improves the continuity and the aesthetics.  I'd give it a quality rating of three beautiful ladies wrapped in two American flags.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Grasshopper Wall