This is an arete route which hasn't been finished yet. One will only see the first bolt or so and no others. This is the only route on the cliff we didn't product test because of the apparent lack of a bolted anchor so, consequently we could only guess as to its difficulty.

The Magic Heel

Sleight of Hand

Black Magic Fellatrix

Wizard

Chupacabra Hood

Que Chichotas

Wizard's Reach

Another somewhat fair route with the crux in the middle.

Challenging route over a roof down low. More interesting moves above finish ones efforts.

We thought the crux near the bottom. This is the other route to the right of Sleight of Hand that ascends the right side of the roof.

The prominent and featureless friction slab at the bottom is definitely the crux. Above is easier then first it appears. Unless one finds slabs really enjoyable....

This is, what we thought, the best of the routes on the north face. It's episodically continuous and features interesting and stimulating moves. Challenging start out of the crack establishes one on the face above. Crux (if pressed) would probably be near the end. Many fun stems throughout.

A fair route with the crux near the 2nd bolt.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Black Magic Wall