No Hein No Gain runs up the dual cracks just north of the crab eyes trail. Every trip to Crab Eyes someone asks about climbing those cracks…Both cracks are wider than XL fists with sporadic cup pods in the right side. Stand start and use both cracks and all features to work up to the top. Stem, Scum, Layback and Jam. The crystals are huge and the friction is good. 

 To the left is a V4-6 FA on technical crimps on a dead vert face ready for anyone interested. Looks great but my fingers were too sore.

No Hein No Gain

Ronabona

Oklahoma Panhandler Direct

Crab Ladder

No Hein Left (Open Project)

Oklahoma Pipeline

No Hein Right (Open Project)

Breaking the Fourth Wall

The Oklahoma Panhandler

To the right of No Hein No Gain there is an obvious two finger pocket and a chain of sidepulls, slopers, and crimps that would make for some bouldery moves.Large crystals make up this right half of the No Hein boulder so friction will be good and heels will stick at the cost of skin on slopers.

Ronabona is one of those warmup cracks a lot of people talk about climbing heading up the switchbacks to Crab Eyes. It’s actually a pretty good crack trainer and warmup but has two back breaker rocks so spot your friends or bring pads. 

The Oklahoma Panhandler Direct is a fun line that works it’s way up the east face of the pan handle. Big moves on good holds.

Follow the obvious flake system straight up, using the horizontal seams for feet.

Left of No Hein No Gain there is a chain of 2-3 finger positive crimps in attractive and assorted orientations and a nice starting jug which will double as a stance once you get into the slightly overhung bulge of the face.This looks like a very technical problem that could have some neat moves hidden in it.My fingers were too sore to work it but I would love to see someone put it up as I don't go out to Crab Eyes much.

Sit start as you would for Oklahoma Panhandler, but go up the uninspiring offwidth on the right. Start inverted and work the feet up, eventually get turned right side up and try not to get pushed out of the crack. Great grunt fest. 

Follow the vertical seam on the right, and use a delicate right hand flake to reach the lip.

start sitting on good holds under the panhandle feature.  move to a large, slopey block, match, then cross to crimps and slopes on the panhandle.  move under the panhandle to a good slot, then continue up the overhanging face. 

  great climb!  best boulder problem i've seen in the wichitas or at quartz.

While Crab Eyes is known primarily for its trad and top rope routes, the area is also home to some quality boulders. Most of the boulders are on the east side of Crab Eyes, either just below the formation or along the hiking trail. Individual problem pages give more specific information on how to find each boulder. 

  The primary boulder is a large, panhandle-shaped boulder hosting about five nice lines.  Approximately 300 yards below Crab Eyes (approaching from Sunset parking).  As you're approaching, the boulder is about 40 yards off the trail on the right.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Crab Eyes Bouldering