If you come into the Sunset area at the right side of the Sunset Boulder, passing "Sunset Arête", walk down and all the way past the main tall face. Pass Braveheart and the Highlander and continue to the very end of the pall, past the slabby portion. At the rear wall, before the next slabs you will see a vertical (slightly overhung) face with a long diagonal slash/crack that ends at a pointy jug. This crack is the start. 

  Stand start low on the crack and follow it to the pointy jug. Gain high feet and blast up and right to a small jug. From there, surmount the juggy lip of the boulder and travel up to the slabby, super tall top through solid jugs and pockets. Dont fall... 

All Things Considered

Sunset Arête

Unholy Matrimony

The Highlander

Braveheart

Sunset Projector

Stand start in the long crack which forms the dihedral to the left of "All Things Considered" and stem up to where you can lay back on the large chunk overhead. Smear feet and continue to layback until you can reach overhead to the top of the steep feature. Mantle over the top to scramble your way to glory.

As you walk past the Highlands Highball, stay on the trail and walk for a short distance to the next set of rocky outcroppings in the close distance. As you walk up to the outcroppings, look to the left and an inclined, tall, highball face comes into view.    This problem is the closest climbable line to the trail. It follows the arête edge to the first top point along the line and tops out there.    Stand start, using the big hollow jug hand above your head. Heel hook and follow the long jug crack/rail line to the top out. Stay under the incline arête to the top out. t-o is massive and juggy and good.    When looking down and left, the ground appears to drop out below, and gives the illusion of being really high off the deck. Fun!! 

The Highlander:

  So tall and scary and awesome... Do attempt this unless you climb several grades higher that listed, and have a solid head game. Also this has a very bad landing, so a group is necessary for spotting and pads. If you have all of these prerequisites, than youre in for an awesome climb... 

  Start on the low right portion of the right ramp, at the end of the ample juggy crack/seam. negotiate the bad feet and work through jug after jug to gain the top of the triangle/pyramid/ramp formation. press out a mantle over top of the ledge/platform. 

  when up on the balancy platform 15-20' off of the deck, reach overhead to the next ledge. once you gain this giant juggy ledge, press out a heel hook mantle over the lip to another balancy reach for the final jug ledge.  

  when you gain the ledge at the top (30' up) stand up and press out the easy top out for the send. This all in all is approximately 35 feet of climbing... such a fantastic line, but be sure to have all of the gear to pull it off.

Braveheart:

  This thing is terrifying, huge, and so so good... Once you move past the upper 1/3, you have to finish. 

  Locate the large, prominent triangle/pyramid type feature on the front, massive face. there are two opposite ramps that make either side of the triangle/pyramid... this line climbs the left side ramp. 

  Start low on the massive bucket jug at the left of the left facing ramp. scale up the left side via the crack system. The feet make the low crux as you work up the ramp. 

  Reach the juggy top platform (avoid the obvious loose block lodged in the platform. I probably wouldnt pop out, but its not necessary to use. Just avoid it). Once at the platform, make a balancy mantle on the small ledge at about 15' off the deck. make a scary reach to the upper ledge overhead. 

  Commit to pressing over the next ledge and mantling up onto this as well... reach up to the next overhead jug at the top. stand up and press over this at about 30' up...

Super fun! Bring a spotter.

 As you walk past the Highland Highball, stay on the trail and walk for a short distance to the next set of rocky outcroppings in the close distance. as you walk up to the outcroppings, look to the left and an inclined, tall, highball face comes into view.

 This problem can be found by locating the right-trending ledge that helped form a massive protruding triangle formation. the problem sit-starts just to the left of the bottom of that triangle (uses the huge ledge as feet) climbing the face holds straight up, to the left.

 sit start to the left of the right trending diagonal ledge, matching a large,smooth-incut jug. toss up to a close, flat gaston and then press up through small crimps. gain a long, downward facing gaston rail, and then obtain the right hand side-pull. make a hard press up to a small crimp. work out left to gain the lip found within the huge notch feature on top of the boulder. 

This boulder is big and beautiful. 

  As you hike up from the Massey gap parking area, this area sneaks up on you. you can actually walk past this area if you aren't paying attention even though it is literally just off the trail. 

  The Sunset Boulder is massive. At its tallest point Sunset could be considered a super highball/free solo.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Sunset Boulder