When I first looked at this problem in the book, and saw the pointy block under the start, I completely wrote the problem off. Why would I do this thing? As it turns out, I was missing out on a great problem.

While working other stuff under the roof, I looked it over, and realized that it was actually very good. All the holds are decent: no little tweakies, and the moves are big and fun. Good footwork makes it much easier.

Start on the sloper, handjam, or underclings in the back, and work your way straight out the roof until you are climbing up the dual diagonal cracks. Grab the jug/fingerlock on the right crack and pull over to finish. The crux is making a throw from the juglet to the flared sloper as you turn the roof (awesome).

I never thought I would say so, but this problem is well worth booting up for. I give it 3/4 stars only because it's a little low and has the block underneath. Highly recommended.

Hanta Man

God Is In the Details

Superman

Superman Low

No Pain No Grain

Spare Me The Details

Start on underclings on the far right side of the cave, to the right of the shared Hanta Man and No Pain No Grain start. Climb straight behind you, avoiding the dabby shark-fin rock that you would normally climb over, then turn left to finish as for Superman.

This is just an alternate start to God Is In The Details that is less dabby, less reachy, and involves a few more moves. FA is Kevin Newell (as far as I know). I'm guessing the grade is the same as GIITD.

Amazing power endurance roof climbing. Start in the back right of the cave, at start of Hanta Man. Work your way out Hanta Man to the big undercling, then climb across the cave to Superman start, then finish on Superman.

Among the best pieces of stone I've ever experienced. Start on your choice of underclings, put your right foot on the Hanta Man juglet, and put in a good knee bar with your left. Throw out to the lip, and work the tensiony moves from there, opposing the lip, the underclings, and using crap footchips underneath to work your way out.

The top out is a bit of a thrutch. If you look at videos online, you'll see everyone throwing to the gritty rounded rail so that they can top out on the right side of it. This goes, for sure, but I found it a lower percentage sequence. If you go up to a left handed meat hook, match, and burl with both hands up the rail, so your body ends up on the left side, it's a bit more physically demanding, but it's higher percentage, and I preferred that way.

Amazing, tensiony moves. A must do, if you are anywhere near Leavenworth.

Start on two slopey underclings and a left kneebar. Do 3-4 moves into the start of Superman, depending on how you count them (move right and left hand, then reset kneebar).

This little devil follows jams and flares and hurts like hell. Tape up for it!

That said, I enjoyed it. I love cracks. I have issues. Even as a biased crack lover, I couldn't say that it's worth more than 2 stars, because the movement isn't all that great, it hurts like a sonofabitch (even with lots of taping), the crux for me was not dabbing because it's so low, and it feels kind of like a bastardization of Hanta Man, which flows oh so well. That said, if you want to get those tape gloves out and feel that distinctive interphalangeal loosening sensation from overhanging finger-locks, without having to rope up and plug gear, you should do this one.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Hanta Man Boulder