Stand start left hand on a small slopey divot and right hand on a sharp incut crimp both at about six feet up. Make a right hand move to a 2 finger pocket with an optional thumb catch (the thumb catch may or may not help you depending on if you're good at pinching and/or sidepulls, some people prefer to just crank straight down on the 2 finger). Fall in left hand to a thin flat crimp sidepull at about the same height and then power to the small sloper ledge at the lip. Most people use a toe or heel in the good hueco out right for the 3 moves leading up to the lip, although this hueco is off for your hands making it a bit contrived although not noticeably so. From the sloper ledge at the lip, the top out continues to be a bit challenging and committing.

Burning Spear

Is This Love

Godzilla

Best Slab

Pressure Drop

Tuff Gong AKA Lion of Judea

Dub World

Yellow Like Cheese

Johnny Too Bad

Steel Pulse

Jah Lives

south downclimb

This is the sit start to Burning Spear. It shares the same start as Jah Lives but after making the 1st right hand move to the sloper you go left hand up to the left hand starting hold of Burning Spear and finish as like Burning Spear.

Stand start using a good ledge at face level, then work up through shrinking holds to a reachy move. Once you are on good holds again, it's best to go left on the rail under the death block, then top out.  A fun sit start adds a couple moves, similar grade. In general, the grade here is height dependent. A variation goes left earlier to meet up with Steel Pulse for it's top-out. See area beta photo for the South Face.

Stand start with good holds at head level on the right side of the arete, move right out onto the slab face, then up, V1. Or sit start on the arete, similar to the start for Pressure Drop, but quickly moving out onto the slab, V2. Techy moves continue till about 3/4 of the way up, then it gets easy.

Sit start with a couple small but good holds. Make a first left hand move to a large jug sidepull and do the arete with some jugs on the left face. Great fun, a must do. It can be done using *only* the arete but it's significantly harder (V4-V5?).

Sit start on pockets left of Pressure Drop arete. Climb straight up the overhang on huecos to commiting top out. 

 Avoid using the holds on Pressure Drop for the grade. 

Stand start matched in the good hold, or with left hand above on one of the crimps. Once you get a foot on the start hold, it will ease up a bit, but still has balance moves as you continue up. Going left to a square block higher up is a probably the easier finish, but you can go straight up.

Sit start a few feet left of overhang, and just right of corner in obvious holds in lower bulge.  Go up and right following the path of decent/juggy hand holds, then straight up.  Top out is a technical mantle.  Optional extension of the project makes it v3-v5ish(?)- traverse all the way right and top out Pressure Drop.

Stand start on slopey but decent holds about head high. Continue up through smaller holds, then go right to a horn high on the arete. Follow the rail system way left on good holds below the blocks loosen by the bonsai juniper to a shared finish with the problems just left.  Or you can go right out onto the slab face right of the arete, under a cracking block, then up. Both can be spicy! A sit start exists, using pockets down and left. It adds a few moves, and potentially a number grade.  Those butterdishes are very friction/temperature dependent.

Stand start using a right hand edge at head level and whatever for your left to gain a flat ledge about 8 feet up. Balance moves in the middle lead to better holds higher up. Trend slightly right. The sit start has been done, but the pack rat nest makes in uninviting. 

Sit start low on incut pockets, then go up right hand to a sloper and left to a two-finger pocket. Gain a small sloper shelf with a slot in the back about six feet off the ground and dyno to the lip. Mantle.

This is the taller of the two common downclimbs for this boulder. The crux is getting off the ground, or the last moves getting back down to the ground. Beginners may want to go up this first, before trying anything else on the boulder, and also pad that rock at the base.

Vertical problems on two sides and a steep north face with a tree behind it. Good problems from easy to V-hard, though the really hard stuff is eliminates. Very exposed to weather as it is in the middle of the field in front of the other walls.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Unbeatable Boulder