This is the chimney/dihedral right of The Friction Route. Rather than veering right onto Slim Shady, you can continue up the wide corner to the top.

Shady Lane

Friable Icicle

Harvest

Frito Bandito

Slim Shady

Forest Fire

Smoky Strikes back

Bean Dip - Variation to Frito Bandito

The Friction Route

This is the smooth low angle face to the left of the prominent chimney/dihedral on the lower tier. Start climbing at an oak tree (probably charred stump now) on the left side and move up small left arete, moving right to a bolt. Two more bolts lead to the top.

Situated between Frito Bandito and Shady Lane.  Head up a finger crack to under a roof.  Pull the roof (straight up) to a ledge.  Head up and left and lieback a wide crack.  Up and left around a bush lies the bolted rap anchor.  Due to the nature of the area and zero traffic on this route the rock is rough and friable in parts.  I dislodged a 20 pound flake on the FA with negligible force.  Due to my being cavalier on the FA, I went up with only a t-shirt for warmth.  After pulling the roof rope drag became a bear and I spent some time sussing out a face that goes straight up before choosing the crack to the left.  I set up a belay at the end of the crack and swear I was going hypothermic (hence Friable Icicle) at the end of a windy day.  When I saw the bolts 15' of easy face climbing above the belay I had to kick myself.

To the right of Friable Icicle a steep semi dihedral will be found. Climb this and mantel onto a small ledge on the left side. A delicate traverse leads right to the crack on Frito Bandito, or you may continue up the brushy crack.

Long route that has it all.  Highball face climbing leads to the first piece of gear.  Head left around a roof, then up a nice hand crack.  Up and right to  a small roof (pulling roof is great fun).  Up friable face climbing past two bolts (crux).  Belay at ledge or climb up the hand crack for a nice finish.  Watch rope drag across the rough rock.  Use slings and it is highly recommended to back-clean the first pieces in the first roof traverse.

Walk left from belay (40') to bolted rap anchor.  100' rope stretcher rappel.

Fun variation the end of Shady Lane on the Lower Tier of Stonewall Peak.  Head up the chimney to a headwall of sorts on your right.  Go straight up this.  Surprising hands appear where you need them to give this climb its unsuspecting moderate grade.  Head up to the Lower Tier bolted rap anchor.

A slabby start forces you to not place any protection for the first 15-20 ft of the climb. After placing your first piece, continue up the obvious line to the right of the first roof-feature seen.  The crux of the climb comes just underneath the first roof, as the shrubbery growing out of the small finger crack makes it hard to secure a good jam.  Continue ~60 ft up the route to the second (and final) roof.  Traverse left with some extreme exposure and finish out the final 10 ft with awesome hand jams!

A bouldery start to an easier crack system.  Walk off right or left to rap anchor.  Start variation Dog House (5.9+, ***) follows roof crack up and right to join Smoky Strikes Back after 20'.  Known as dog house due to the alcove it starts from between a large boulder and the main wall.

From the beginning of the traverse left on Frito Bandito (at the left end of the triangular dark rock formation), head straight up and mantel a horn to a (old?) bolt. Thin moves lead to a slab and the regular route.

Description

Protection

Routes in Lower Tier