On the left side of the formation (east facing), boulder upward via the well-chalked crimps that lead up to couple of pockets along a horizontal, then further upward to the underside of an oblong horizontal loaf.  Then move rightward til able to turn the end of the loaf to go up.  Connect to a left-slanting crack, then jogs back right to go vertically up shallow cracks and grainy knobs to top out.

Ain't This Boogie A Mess?

George Clinton Funked Me

Parliament

Never Mind

Funkadelic

The Oven Mitt

Vertical line of jugs about 10 ft to climber's right of Funkadelic, up past multiple diagonals with nice juggy lips.  Bartlett's Central JT book rates it 5.8/9.

Tough direct start by cranking up on a positive incut lippy crimp to reach the start of the main crack.  Follow that upward, slanting slightly right.  Near the top, instead of scrambling up the trivial boulder slot as book says, could veer up and left via a juggy diagonal crack, to lead up to more jugs to the top.

Start atop boulder and climb up to a bolt.  Transfer up and left to the lower right-slanting crack, across a grainy face still covered by crispy chip edges.  Diagonal up along that crack, then transfer to the upper right-slanting crack to the top.  This is the first route to climber's right of the Oven Mitt rock feature, with an obvious lone bolt.

Start atop the big boulder to traverse to climber's right via nice jugs onto the giant ledge, then up the steep twin cracks.  The bit of choss at the bottom detracts, but many nice happy jugs the rest of the way up.  Near the top, finish straight up via the right side crack.  Located on the very featured steep orange wall to climber's right of the Oven Mitt rock feature, to adjacent right of the single bolt of Never Mind.  Height from topout to flat ground is about 45 ft, as measured with our 94 ft rope.

Climb a crack in a shallow right-facing corner, making use of the left side of the "oven mitt" block when possible, then continue past a recessed area to finish up a slot with a wedged boulder. Gear belay and walk off.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Oven Mitt