Start about 6 feet to the right of the arete in a pair of cracks on a slightly overhanging face.  Follow the cracks and head left toward the arete to gain a stance.  Climb up the arete and traverse around a small overhang.  Climb face back toward arete to clip the pin on the left side of the arete.  Head back right and on some really thin face holds(crux) to reach a thank God horizontal crack.  Finish up to the anchors above Truth or Contra-Expenses.  This route has some tricky sequences, challenging route finding, but wonderful moves.  Gear can be a bit sparse in places, but reasonable.  Solid for 5.10b.

Dumbolt County

Wunderkind

The Man From Planet Zog

Hi-C

Bubba Safari

Logotherapy

Eight Ball in the Side Pocket

Duck In A Noose

Bubbarete

Fired for Sandbagging

Harmonic Jello

Immaculate Combustion

Cumberland Blues

Fierce Face

Truth or Contra-Expenses

Face it Bubba

Basic Bubba Crack

Climb a short crack to a ledge. Finish up a face to the top.

This is an OK route, but it can be easily done and is more enjoyable with trad gear. If you're a purist, either avoid it or bring a standard rack.

Climb the crack and corner to the anchors.

Start on a slabby face with small rounded edges.  After clipping the second bolt, climb up and mantle onto a large ledge.  Clip the third bolt and head into the crux.  This route has awesome moves and sequences, but is a bit dirty.  If this route were to see more traffic, it would surely gain some stars!

This route shares a start with Wunderkind and splits left after the second bolt.  The crux involves pulling over the roof.  There are only 2 or 3 5.10 moves here and the rest of the route is 5.6.

A few hard moves on small holds make up the bulk of this route. Chill climbing up to the small roof. Once at the roof figure out your best sequence, around 5 or 6 moves without much vertical gain, and cruise to the top on big holds.

Eight ball is a fun beta intensive New River Slab climb with several cruxes to keep you thinking, all culminating with a committing move at the end.  This one could be a challenging onsite.  Though sometimes close to the climbing, the crack is off route.

The route shares anchors with Basic Bubba Crack and Face it Bubba, so it is easy to TR or hang draws after climbing either.  It also should be easy to hike to the top.

Stop reading here if you want to onsight...

The standard start is on the face just below the first bolt or the short person start uses a cheater stone on the arete.  Either way, use the left hand sidepull and obvious jug to climb the face.  Make a couple reaches between good horizontals until the good holds disappear.  Fight the temptation to sidepull the crack, find what little holds are available on the face and balance your way up.  Continue up to a good horizontal to another balancy standup move and then more good horizontals as things steepen up a bit.  Use the iron band sidepull and the hard to see crack out left to stand up to good holds at the last bolt.  Stand up to the slopey sidepull, and then balance further out right to a good little pinch, step through, shuffle feet around and then reach up and left to good hidden mono pocket.  After deciding which finger can handle the move, toss to the good horizontal and crank your way up jugs to the anchor.

Start behind a big flake, then up left facing flakes and blocks.

Climb the obvious thin hands crack (crux) to the roof, traverse right(about 15 Ft.) and up to gain arete.  Watch out for a large loose block just below the arete.  Follow the arete on the left side to the top.  The crack is great, the arete is great, the traverse is somewhat uneventful.

The opening moves are the technical crux. Small crimps to reach an overhang. The overhang section is more of a sequential crux. If you pick the right holds quickly enough, you get a nice rest immediately after the moves. From here, follow a flake system to the left and then straight up to the finish. The last part is significantly easier than the rest, unless you opt for the harder variation (

Harmonic Jello

, 12b) that heads right. This might be a good project for someone breaking into the 5.12 grade.

This is the harder finish to Fired for Sandbagging.  Climb the first 4 bolts of Sandbagging, but then instead of traversing left to clip the last bolt, clip the bolt on the right instead, and perform a delicate slab dance to the shared anchors.

Start at a shallow, short right facing corner and traverse left to clip the first bolt.  Pull some thin slab moves heading up and left toward a large ledge.  Climb straight over the ledge and up past 2 bolts and the pin.  Crux is between the last bolt and the pin on crimpy, slightly overhanging face.  Very cool route with thin climbing most of the way!

Don't be turned away by the bit of rotten rock at the start, this is a great trad line!  Climb up and head toward the roof passing a pin.  Pull around the roof passing it on the right side via a thin crack(crux).  Follow the obvious diagonal wide hands crack right to a corner.  Shuts are on the face to the left of the final short right facing corner.

Head straight up the face ti the ledge. Continue past two more bolts to an anchor.

Start by doing some easy crack climbing and then get your crimp on.  Find good crimps and pull a buldge to a stance.  Place gear here or make final committing moves to next bolt.  Another slightly easier sequence guards the last bolt and then it's not bad to the anchors once you know the sequence.

Follow finger crack over bulge to face with two bolts.

Harder than it looks.

Jam and stem right-facing dihedral. Move left around small roof to gain face and crack (crux 1). Climb undulating handcrack into awkward slot (crux 2) below pie-shaped roof. Top out to the left and move to anchors atop adjacent sport-route (Eight Ball...).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 11. Bubba Buttress