This is an awesome mixed line that runs up the center of the Central wall to a natural weakness through the roof above. The first pitch is an easy, 100', sport line that runs to an anchor below the roof. The second pitch passes an ancient set of anchors and ascends the amazing, thin crack through the roof above. A few bolts protect the slab above where a 2-bolt anchor on a ledge awaits. The roof has excellent moves with natural gear, a great line!

NOTE: if you are only leading the first pitch of this route, please respect others that wish to lead on through to the second pitch. Nothing is is more inconsiderate than a party toproping the first pitch of a multi-pitch route if others wish to lead the entire route.

Free Fall

Scotch on the Rocks

Shannon's Bloody Leg

Cerebellum

Reflections

Wichita Skyline

Dirty Sanchez

Goofer's Roof

"Unnamed Arete"

Split Decision

Kanarado Korner

Jam Crack Route

Jack Straw

Can Do

Swinger's Convention

The Gecko

Zig Zag

This is a fun, slabby, sport route that stands alone or sets you up for

Kanarado Korner

.  Begin the route 50' left of the iron ladder and route

Free Fall

.  A spacious bolt line heads straight the featured slab to a 2-bolt anchor on a little ledge.

This is a fun, diverse route. Look for the big flake with fingerlocks and a good landing by a big, flattish rock. Sit start on two small but positive chips, and move up to a good left hand and an ok right. Fingerlock and high step for the finish.

This is an original runout trad line, included for historical purposes.

This is the farthest left (West) route on the West wall.  Begin on easy, unprotected slab to a short, 20', overhanging face with 3 older bolts.  Climb the bolt line to easy and sparsely protected slab above, trending left past a small pine.  A single bolt marks the end of the pitch below a dedication plaque to Scott Stull.  Begin below the plaque, and follow a thin, arching crack past two bolts and climb the face using trad gear to a 2 bolt anchor found in a small alcove/ledge behind the small pines.

This is a great sport line that splits the upper West wall.  Follow the bolt line up to a 2-bolt belay alcove.  You could potentially get a TCU mid-way in a flared crack, but there is a bolt to protect the marginal placement.

Dirty Sanchez runs up the far right edge of the East Wall.  Follow the base trail up and right to its end.  Looking above, Dirty Sanchez heads straight up broken ground, passing the low roof to the right and on up (and back slightly left) to a decent ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.  As the name implies, it's not the cleanest route but an easy trad lead.

This is a mellow line that tackles an awkard roof, low on the East Wall.  Starting a bit right of the bolted line of Split Decision, climb up right-trending crack/ledges to a looming, left-facing roof.  The crack system through the root eats ear, so plug and chug through the roof and on to the easy slab above.  Work a bit right and finish on a ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.

This route was put in a while ago but has more 'modern' bolting compared to the old Star drives I found on the cliff.  There are 3 3/8" bolts that protect a line that heads straight up the right arete, on the upper West Wall.

This is not my route, but I am rounding out the list. It has a pretty obvious route decision at the roof: left or right? Sparse bolting above joins the

Gecko

anchors at top. How hard is it? I'm very interested in the consensus as I couldn't get over either choice.

This is an amazing, 2 pitch mixed line that begins with a steep, bolt protected face, into a ramp that leads to a 2nd steep bolted face that trends into an awesome, right-facing corner/crack, protected with excellent natural gear.  The direct route begins up and left of Scotch on the Rocks on a 3-bolt line.  It is just right of the direct start for Jack Straw.  The route has great moves on a super-fun line, one of the best in the 10 Mile.  P1: Climb the steep, awkward face passing 3 bolts 95.10) to a slab above and trend up and right on unprotected 5.5 slab to a 2-bolt anchor.  P2: Climb the steep, thin bolted face (5.10) to the awesome right-facing corner to a 2-bolt anchor.

The climb begins up and left of Scotch on the Rocks and just right of Jack Straw.  To access the 2nd pitch, you could also climb either

Scotch on the Rocks

or the first pitch of

Jack Straw

and belay in a large crack/ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.  If accessing via

Scotch

, climb the 5.7 slab to the anchors and continue climbing, trending up and left, passing a small face/overhang to the belay stance.  If accessing via

Jack Straw

, climb the 5.10 past 3 bolts to the slab above.  Pass the 2-bolt anchor and trend up and right (50'), passing the dead tree, on unprotected slab (5.5) to the belay stance.

Start as for

Jack Straw

, but continue straight on the easy slab to an obvious, right-facing corner. Fun jamming and stemming lead to an intimidating looking roof that goes at 5.8. Once over the roof, find a good directional placement for micro cams in a horizontal crack slightly higher than a large dead tree on your right. Traverse 15 feet right to

Jack Staw's

anchors just right of the dead tree.

We all know where Jack Straw is from...and I know you'll be amazed with this classic, thin-edged, sport line.  Begin this 2-pitch line on the left of

Scotch on the Rocks

by following the fixed line west, passing the dead tree and scrambling up the broken slab.  This route is the left-most of the two bolted lines on a short, 30' wall.  Climb past the 3 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor left of the dead tree.  Belay here or angle up right 40' on unprotected 5.5 slab to a higher belay where you will find a 2-bolt anchor on crack/ledge.  This is the same belay stance for

Kanarado Korner

.

The classic second pitch ascends 6 bolts up a steep face through a daunting roof.  Balancy face moves get you atop the upper slab and lead to a 2-bolt anchor right of the dead tree and belay alcove.  Don't let Jack "shoot you down"!  2 single rope raps get you back down.

Can Do is basically the extension or pitch 2 of

The Gecko

.  From the end of

The Gecko

, head straight up, passing through easy roofs and slabs, trending slightly left to the top-most anchor.  It is a mellow trad line.

Possibly a new variation, looking for more information if you know the history.

Move up from the anchors at the first pitch of Free Fall and follow the flaky crystalline vein as it traverses up to the right. Move around a blind corner to the crack terminus and traverse right 15 feet to the second pitch anchors of Zig Zag.

This is a great mixed line following steepening slab to a fine crack.  You could continue up another pitch (25-30m) to the top through easy 5.6-7 trad climbing to a 2-bolt anchor atop

Zig Zag

.  Climb on in honor of the "Gecko", you will be missed, catch you on the other side, buddy!

Can Do

is the 2nd pitch of this route that heads up through broken terrain to a 2-bolt anchor.

This is a great, easy, 3 pitch, pure trad line and a rare gem on these walls where gear is typically sparse, random or shady.   Begin where the approach trail hits the wall and trend left into a shallow, right-facing corner. Follow the crack/slab as it arcs right to a 2-bolt anchor on a small ledge.  Continue to follow the crack to a second, smaller belay ledge with another 2-bolt anchor.  The final pitch runs straight up the featured face (through broken, roof-like rock) to a final 2-bolt anchor just below a large ledge.  3 single rope (60m) raps gets you back on the deck.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Sunshine Buttress (aka Wichita Wall)