This route follows the crack up a tall dihedral for about 90 feet to a ledge, then goes up a face slightly right of the ledge. The dihedral part is perfect for beginning trad climbers, as the cam and nut placements are bomber. Use both sides of the dihedral to stem your way up towards victory. The crux is the face climb at the top of the route (protected by two bolts).  

  Warning:  

  A 70m rope will be ideal for this route.  

  If you use a 60m rope, the belayer may want to stand on the upper ledge (right below the start of the crack) and tie a knot at the end of the rope. If you rappel using a 60m you'll reach the ledge and have to down climb roughly 4 feet.

The Big Bang

Ode to Apollo

Lost Alien

The route wanders to the right towards the roof approximately 80 feet up. The bottom half is smooth sailing on edges and solid crimps. The crux creeps up just before the roof; if you make it past, you are flying high through space on solid jugs. 

  If you are using a 60m rope, please make sure to tie a knot at the end of the rope. It's a long climb.

This route can be led with trad gear, or top-roped by hiking/scrambling to the right of The Mothership wall and onto the top, where a short down-scramble leads to the bolted anchor. For trad, you'll probably want to stay more to the left near a big off-width/crack feature, to place gear in it. Veer right toward the top, into the corner which has pro and can mostly be stemmed. On top-rope, start by climbing directly up the middle of the face on slopy but plentiful holds.

This area is just around the corner to the southeast of the main developed areas, and on the next level up. The rock quality here is just as good as the developed area, but the routes here are or will be quite long in comparison, perhaps even 2-pitch. Already in place in the area are at least one epic sport route and a fun trad/TR route. The area has potential for more good routes.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (E) The Mothership