This is a good route to practice fiddling with gear on. Start by clambering up a few blocks using jams, smears and the occasional shallow edge. Climb through flakes following the most profound crack passing both good and marginal placements. Continue on this until the crack dies out. Slope, smear, then insecurely rock your way left onto a large ledge to gain the anchor.

This route is short and almost more work than its worth. The crux sits high and the protection is a bit hard to place. Shaky gear, mixed with insecure stances keeps this line just that, a

jointed venture

.

Jointed Venture

Squash Rocker

Hippies Anonymous

Blind Man's Glasses

Allergic Reaction

Neanderthal or Not at All

Start a few feet left of the stacked blocks of

Jointed Venture

and make your way up underneath the large roof by either climbing the dihedral (mellow, probably not the original route) or tackling the face straight up (hard but only way to clip the first bolt).

Plug a piece underneath the roof and make an awkward rockover move to the right to get out from under the roof. Clip the 2nd bolt and make your way up the upper slab, pinching crystals and feeling a bit runout.

In the ruckman's book they list the route and the FA as anonymous, I don't feel to bad about posting as hippies anonymous because I found this route due to two hippies who would load a bowl then climb 40 feet, load a bowl climb another 40 feet.....all day long.

Pulling into the hand crack in the corner is probably the crux.  Move up under the roof and pull the lip (awkward). If you go up from here and right you can use

Squash Rockers

anchors.  dirty but fun

Pitch 1

- Begin on Jointed Venture skipping the bolted belay on the ledge.  Continue up a fun, easy chimney.  At the top of the chimney climb up and left past some blocks and up to a crack.  Climb the crack until blocked by a bush and move left onto a slab.  Continue up and left and set up a belay in blocks on a good, sandy ledge.  140' (5.9)

Pitch 2

- Climb up and right using a diagonal crack which is a bit dirty.  Move up through blocks then left to a right leaning crack.  Climb up and right following the crack then a ramp to a stance below the roof.  A move leads up and left to the roof.  Traverse left under roof and then climb chimney/cracks above to the top of the formation.  90' (5.9)

A short and very strenuous route that weighs in heavy at the grade.

Neanderthal or Not at All

climbs a steep face using rounded flakes and a few hidden edges. Appropriately named, the crux of this route may reset your vocabulary.  Limited holds and an unobvious sequence....no wonder its a classic!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Bob's Rocking Chair