Susie Cream Cheese (aka 5.10tr)

Black Slab

Hot Karl Sunday

Plush

10 TR

Vanilla Cream

Pandemic

Sticky Fingers

Space Ghost

Cherry Garcia Tower

Possessed

Ice Cream Parlor Crack

Crack 3

Slab Route

Critical Mass

Earth Muffin Express

Unknown OW

Climate Refugee

Crack 1

The Jumbletron

Epidemic

Coffin Crack

Rain

Parlor Game

Nightlight

Kura Buran

Bastardized Old Route

Brewed Awakenings

5.6 Corner

Left Slab

Freezer Burn

RP City

Knee Grinder

Pork Soda

Doghead Fish

Brush Your Teeth

Rattler

A Good Day to Die

Crack 2

T-Rex

Linda's Way

Fun face climbing leads up the face with thinning holds and balance, at one point you may wish you had sticky fingers (do not climb in the sun on a hot day).

A good way to limber up, the

Black Slab

is a mellow trip on a low angle face.

Hosting an extra bolt or two more than its neighbor, the

Black Slab

has good climbing with good stances, good rests, and offers a forgiving introduction to

Ice Cream Parlor's

slab circuit.

Start just right of the gully for the easiest version or go

direct

for the slightly more difficult beginning.

To the right of Crack 1 is a line of bolts up a slab. The line pulls a bulge and leads up to a right facing corner. The bolts become much more frequent as things thin out.

This route starts in the 5.6 corner, climbs up and left to the first bolt of Brush Your Teeth, then bumps over the ledge to the corner and up 6 bolts to the anchor on the arête. Named after a Stone Temple Pilots song (RIP Scott Weiland). Beware of a loose looking, yet solid flake near the top.

This is a fun and somewhat technical slab/face route that has no protection.  It is necessary to climb Parlor Game, then traverse left to setup a tr on existing two bolt anchor.

two routes to the right of wolverine.  heads up 5.6 crack toward left facing bolted corner.  crux is on the upper half.

This four pitch route is on the left end of the ice cream parlor.

P1 climb a thin crack 5.10 to a series of bolt protected face moves. Belay at the fixed anchors on the ledge

P2 Follow a 5.9 crack then traverse right on face moves to a ledge in the corner. Use hand size gear for the belay.

P3 Crux. Climb the slot corner to an odd stemming move. Clip a bolt at the crux, but take a few small nuts for pro too. Pass a rap anchor and continue up and left on a thin flake with bolts for gear. Belay at the double bolted ledge. A 60 meter rap on two ropes will get you back to earth from here.

P4 Climb the obvious OW crack, at 5.10, up from the belay to a fixed anchor. From here it is 50 meters down to the anchor midway up  P3. From their a double rope rap will get you down.

Pitch 1

: Climb either the 5.6 corner or Parlor Games 5.9, continue past the first set of anchors to easy ground that is protected by bolts. End at a two bolt anchor below a flake.

Pitch 2:

Continue up the flake that protects well with 2 #4 and a #2 Camelot in a  horizontal.  The flake ends at a ledge below a chimney.  Continue up the chimney and

not

to the anchor on the right side of the ledge. This is a rap anchor.   The route continues up the easy chimney to a wide hands to hands crack that leads out of the chimney to the right. End at the hidden belay station located just outside the chimney on a slanted ledge. (5.9)

Pitch 3:

Down climb off the belay ledge back into the chimney then ascend a flared chimney with a fist to hands crack in the back of it.  When you reach the roof at the end veer left to pass the roof.  Long slings are needed to prevent rope drag while going over the roof.   Build an anchor off a big boulder or a tree located to the right of the top out. (5.10)

Descent:

The first rappel anchors are located up to your right as you top out.  From there you can rap all the way to the ground with two 70 meter ropes or with a single 60 meter rope you can make four raps and a 70 meter rope gets you down in three raps.

Start in the saddle between the tower and the buttress. Follow a good finger crack between the tower and buttress with chimney moves. When the crack pinches down, turn yourself around and pull good holds to the top. Once on top of the tower build a belay with hand size pieces. The summit is a short scramble to the right.

Traverse left around the arete, then start cranking on the beautiful edges. Head up and slightly left to the anchors on top of the pillar. Towards the top the rock get less vertical but more sandy and the holds become thinner.

When you park and look at the Ice Cream Parlor this is the snazzy looking crack on the right side of the crag.  Take the path that leads to the right and onto a large ledge.  This crack is a really beefy flake in a very open book.  The start is spicy then you break into 50ft of perfect yellow tcus, a bulge where the crack widens and flares then to the bolt anchor.  Total desert style, stem on the smears, crank the fingers, fire the cams and get moving.Anthony Everhart

The direct start is a 15' face of vertical unvarnished sandstone nubs to a short section of unvarnished slab.  If led, this is a PG section and a spotter is recommended.  The alternate approach is to traverse the lower slab from the blocks at the base of Crack 1.

Another good fingers and thin hands crack, with more surface fractures (varnish has broken off leaving pockets of sandstone beneath) for your feet.  This is the 'stickiest' of the three cracks for your feet and not as intense as either Crack 1 or 2.  Lead or TR this climb and use the Crack 1 anchors.

Fun little route while waiting for the 3 cracks to the right, known also as "Black and Tan Slab" in SG's Best Climbs Moab guidebook.

Start up a slightly left slanting off fingers crack, move right (rock is poor if continuing left) then head back left and up to anchors on a right facing wall.

Start on a small ledge just below and to the left of Critical Mass.  There is one bolt to protect the step-over move, then shuffle along the ledge to the arete proper.

Be careful of a fall before the 2nd bolt (groundfall) or after the 4th bolt (arete could cut the rope)

This makes for a great introduction to wide climbing as there are an abundance of footholds on the right face. Stack or lieback up the widening crack until you can crawl inside. Rest up and then enter the crux as the crack narrows again. Mantel up onto the ledge (beware of loose rock). Set a directional at the bolt below “A Good Day to Die,” then belay your follower off the two bolt anchor to the right. Walk off to the right or continue up Good Day to Die.

Right facing tips corner, traverse left at break and finish on right facing tips corner.

We put this up many years ago!! Heard EO had bolted a 20ft variation , starts and finish’s on this pitch via a bolted arete. Var. looks quite good, nice job EO!

From the top of the climber's trail, turn left (N) and walk about 100 feet to a large belay area with comfortable rocks under the low-angle varnished slabs.  The first of a group of 3 cracks breaking the slab is Crack 1.  The first 30' are easy and blocky and then the fun begins with a thin fractured crack leading the entire way to the anchors.  A crux involves trusting a very small wire and trusting your fingers, not your feet - they don't stick to desert varnish!

Excellent easier route in the area.  This is the easiest and safest route by which to set up TRs of Cracks 2 and 3 (to the left).  Rap or lower 75'.

Crack 1 is also the first pitch of Wolverine (5.11) that continues up the vertical wall above and right of the Crack 1 anchors.  The dihedral straight up (just left) is unknown as of this report.

chimney up the left side of the formation following the steps to a nice belay ledge. #2 and 3 camalots for the belay and or tie off a small cruddy boulder. follow the chimney/crack to the top. a short traverse right leeds to the anchors on top of pitch 1 of T-Rex. a single 70 got us to the deck. i THINK a 60 would make it but not sure. way fun, easy route. a tad dusty. i spoke with Tom. he said they started climbing this thing way back in the day to get to the top of pitch 1 of T-REX quickly in order to fire that route after some holds had broke. nice way for us average joes to set up a TR on a CLASSIC hard route.

Climb the first 3 pitchs of "Pandemic" From the third belay   Bust left on huecos, with a cool compression move via 2 bolts,  head left to overhanging tight hand crack! Bolted belay under roof.

2nd pitch is a short wide crack up and left, then climb a slab boulder problem back right to the rim.

Rap " Pandemic" first rap is in the notch.  (2 ropes)

Route pulls the low roof on fist jams and face holds, then continues up the corner. At the top of the corner climb on inside the coffin.

Climb some loose rock to the first bolt. Crux around the 4th and last bolt. 7 bolts total plus anchor. Fun route that has a few great moves in 95 feet.

A balancy first move or two on a sandstone slab, then easy cruising to the last bolt. Another balancy bit with smearing on varnish, then good holds to the anchors.

This route begins just right of Vanilla Cream.  Begin off a fallen block, mantle to #3 camalot placement.

Climbs an overhanging bolted line at the left side of the ICe Cream Parlor. Start at a crack, traverse out right then over a roof, out a bulge and onto small crimps. A devious crux awaits. After that you get a rest and then some technical arete moves. A bolted anchor is on the higher ledge.

This route starts on a clean 5.6-ish splitter to the right of Ice Cream Parlor about 75 feet. Climb up the fist/hand crack to a stance. Clip the bolt  and make some dirty balancey moves using the faux dihedral and edges. Pass one more bolt to a nice ledge and half of an anchor. I ran out of bolts but there is a 4" empty hole next to the existing bolt (which is a 4" rawl).

Please chop me and remove my bad anchor.

Climb just left of the 5.7 face.  Begin in a gully, heading toward chain at the base of the headwall.

A three pitch route on the far left side of the wall. A broken, wide-ish corner system equipped with rap rings. Lots of pro available.

P1: Short, but good, hand and fist crack with some nice positioning and movement. Easy to protect, this is a great beginner trad lead. Finish at some rap rings. (5.6)

P2: A Chossy bolted pitch with an occasional placement to an anchor. (5.5)

P3: A long and wide crack to an anchor. (5.6)

Most people climb only the first pitch.

Very mellow sandstone slab climb with plenty of handholds. Starts out and goes most of the way on bare sandstone with gradually increasing varnish from about half way.

There are some hollow sounding areas, particularly to the right, so if you weigh in at 250, you might want to only delicately yard on the holds.

Some sporty moves get you past the first two bolts, where it relaxes a bit, making great moves on what is now, great rock.  During the FA I was gripped not to knock the death blocks off, Larry pulled those off, no problem.  After a mantle trend right toward a great looking wide to finger crack.  great gear in this section... and some reachy radical moves get you to the anchor.  save a #6 hb offset for the top!  enjoy!

This is a great route as it tests your nerves more than anything.

Start up easy cracks and ledges.  Then commit to the thin seam up and left.  Place gear when it is available because placements are intermittent but good when you get them, although gear may occupy your only hold at times. When the crack peters out move up and left to the 2 bolt anchor.

In the middle of the climb you can move out left, do a few face moves and back right to the crack for a slightly easier option as the crack and friction moves feel pretty desperate here.  If you toprope this climb be sure to have the rope a bit "loose" as any tension can make this climb quite a bit easier.

This climb is towards the right side of the climbing at the Parlor, and just right of the big ledge from which Ice Cream Parlor Crack  climbes from. It is a fun line if you like squeeze chimney. If you don't, don't bother climbing it. The climb starts just right of a bolted arete and heads up and right through a small amount of broken rock to reach a big, solid, right-facing dihedral, protecting with standard equipment. After maybe 10 meters, the crack widens to take big gear (#4 camalot or larger) and then widens sufficiently to squeeze in. You will pop up onto a ledge before facing a second dihedral with a single protruding flake 1 meter up that keeps you out of the chimney for a few awkward moves before you can get in again. Once in, step back a few moves to a good foot-rail, then make your way for the light above, and fixed anchors.  These Ancors are for Knee Grinder, Coffin, and the sport-climb between.

This is one of the best routes at the parlor yet one of the least climbed, probably because of a slightly dicey start and misinformation in guidebooks.  It is quite varied and interesting on mostly good rock.  There is face, crack, stemming, jambing and even a tiny roof.  Mantle up some not so great rock below a single bolt that is about 15' above the ledge.  There is a solid horizontal crack that will take a 1.5" piece if you like at this point.  Then climb to the bolt and decipher how to get into the corner to your right .  Then, climb straight up another 80 feet staying in the corner and cracks.  Pull over a small roof.  Then, twenty feet of easier but loose and unprotectable rock to a two bolt anchor.  There is a bolt on the last 30 feet of easy climbing.  Skip this bolt as it was unfortunately put in by the FA of Linda's Way next door.

Begin on Climate Refugee seam (.1, .2, 2x .3 Camalot) to tricky first clip, then get lined up for a powerful dead point to the arete, stabilize and face a V3/4 boulder problem. Follow a few more bolts to a finger crack (.3 - 1.0 camalot) and anchor.

Stemming leads to a varied crack on the left wall.  Cam placements can be found before reaching the first bolt.  Follow the ramp and dihedral to the final sandy section below the anchor.

Climbs a crack, then face moves through a roof, then a thin crack to an anchor.

A good warmup for Ice Cream Parlour Crack - Start 20 feet left of it, climb up a right-facing corner, then trend right past three bolts to the belay, or continue on a few more feet to a second anchor.

Thinner than Crack 1 and not as broken or fractured, Crack 2 yields good fingers the entire climb.  Start either direct or by climbing up the blocky start to Crack 1 and traversing left on bigger-than-they-look sandstone nubbins - you'll appreciate the stickyness of the unvarnished lower part of this climb soon enough!  Lead or TR this climb and use the Crack 1 anchors.

The photo below shows a portion of the slab just right of Crack 1 - no features, no crack, very dicey.  Give it a try on TR and see if you can stick!

AKA: Roofs from Hell, The Separate Reality of Moab.  Like the rest of Gilje's routes, this one ain't no gimme.  Four distinct 5.11 cruxes: thin face, thin corner, overhanging jugs and a big roof-crack to finish makes for a multi-pitch Wingate route as action packed as any other in the desert.

pitch 1: thin vertical scoops protected by bolts. 5.11c, 100ft.

pitch 2: bolt protected climbing up corners and slabs. 5.10, 100 ft.

pitch 3: hard to protect thin corner directly above the spacious belay ledge. 5.11 pg13, 50ft.

pitch 4: The crux. Overhanging face to horizontal crack. 5.11c, 100ft.

This route is right located right of Freezer Burn.  Start by climbing off the right end of the shelf to a cam placement before clipping the first bolt ( I had my belayer on the ground down below for this), then follow the next bolt up and left to two more bolts and up thin cracks to a crux move gaining the arete where a bolt is found.  Follow big holds to the anchor above.

Description

Location

Routes in Ice Cream Parlor