Sit start on the far left side of the boulder so that the river is to your back. Traverse right on small rails and side pulls to gain sloper(avoid bumping into the tree), keep traversing around buldge and onto face climb on other side topping out on right side of highest part of boulder. Nice little gem

Peace Train Traverse

Birds of a Feather

Goose Egg

Hard of Heron

Splash

A Deja Vu That Lasts

Teaser

Bits & Pieces

Singulara

Sanctuary Crack

Firecat

Mill View

Two Ledges

Jon's

The Beak

Climb the right side of the tall face. Be prepared, you may have an audience from across the river.  Best done at low tide.

Climb the left side of the slab past a left-facing sidepull to the lip and mantle.

Sit start in the small pit left of the tree at the crimps. Pull to a good edge then grab jugs over the lip. Mantle onto the top.

Climb the face left of the crack starting at the low jug.

Start down on the left corner of the boulder (side facing the river) where the crack begins. Traverse the crack using your heels well before topping out on the right side.  

  Fun little problem, not sure if it's been done before.

Sit start the right end of the overhang at the sloping arete. Pull to a good hold at the lip and mantle.

Climb the face between the two cracks utilizing the two aretes.

Climbs the right side of the slab. Balance grab the lip and mantle.

Climbs the crack up the middle of the tall face. Best done at low tide.

Sit start at the low jug. Pull to the good edge and pocket then up through ok holds over the lip onto the top.

Climb the middle of the short face on tiny crimps.

Climbs the left side of the face on nice holds. Best done at low tide!

Sit start the small overhang at ok crimps. Pull up and right to the sidepull then better holds up top.

A bit of a one-move-wonder. Sit start at the horizontal rail. Pull to the jug rail at the lip and mantle.

An awesome little park right across from downtown Newmarket. The woods contain 2 large glacial erratics, and many smaller boulders. The park is cleared out from heavy traffic, but some big pine trees keep it nice and shady. Make sure you pick your way down to the river to check out the big boulder.

Description

Protection

Routes in Heron Point Sanctuary