P1. Climb a hairline crack through the gray band to more broken rock, aiming for a crack in a roof.  Trend slightly right, to a hole and then to a ledge and 2-bolt belay (A3+, 130’).

P2: Gain the wide crack to the right then work up and right around the arete (communication difficult) and up a rotten crack system to a 2-bolt belay (A3, 120’).

P3: Continue upward, through a roof to a thin headwall then to a 2-bolt belay under a protruding flake (A3, 100’).

P4: Nail around and mantel onto the “coffin.” Continue up the splitter crack above to a large ledge and a 2-bolt belay (A2+, 80’).

P5: Climb to the summit (no anchor) (A1 or 5.8, 25’).

Descent: Reverse the final pitch, single-rope rappel to the top of P2, rappel to the ground with two 70m ropes.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Pink Squirrel