A variation to Times Square using natural pro. Climb the first half of Times Square then split left to follow the horizontal crack below the lip of the overhang for an airy, slopey boulder problem (12a). This takes you to the top of the left arête where you will mantel. From there, head straight up and right to the chains for Times Square/Black Monday. An easier option goes at 5.11 and involves a blind throw over the lip instead of following the crack left. This way is more direct but not as fun as the 12a. While the upper half is trad, the lower half also offers good cam placements if you like plugging gear more than clipping bolts; otherwise, clip the first four bolts of Times Square.

Hard Times Variation

Red Light District

Mass Wasting

Black Monday

Alpenbock Route

Unknown

Ionic Bonding

Cross Town

Clastic Cling

Madison Avenue

[Redacted]

Melting Point

Choir Boy

Chorus Line

Old Route

Bourbon Street

Times Square

Not Much

Skid Row Variation

Tres Facile

This climbs the juggy roof just right of Madison Avenue.  They share anchors.  A nice climb with a big pull at the beginning.  Very enjoyable roof climb.  The climbing eases up, later on.  This is the reason that I only gave it 1 star.  The roof begs 2 stars, just not a consistent enough climb.  Do yourself a favor and do this climb.

This route starts towards the right (eastern) end of the first section of the lower S-Curves wall.  It is directly below a smaller roof about 100 feet to the right of the giant roof.

The first two bolts take you over a funky roof that seems much harder than the 5.9+ given in Ruckman's book.  The holds were there, but we were a bit sketched out until we got a top-rope on it.  It is possible to climb left or right around the roof, but this would definitely be off-route and not quite as fun.

After the crux, the climbing is relatively straight-forward, though many of the obvious looking holds seem to be pointing down.  The route moves up to the right and finishes to the right of the large roof directly above your belayer.  Once you get to the top, you'll have a fine view up and down the canyon.

Mass Wasting

takes the obvious overhanging headwall about 60 feet up between

Ionic Bonding

to the left and

Red Light District

to the right.  Fourth or barely fifth class up easy rock (actually the first part of the

Alpenbock Route

) to the overhanging headwall, then punch it past six bolts via somewhat cryptic but great climbing with superb position.  Almost as good as

Cross Town

, particularly if the fourth class section is overlooked.

The Ruckmans' 1998 guide recommends climbing the overhanging headwall from a belay at the sixth bolt of

Ionic Bonding

(thereby making a two-pitch climb), but the benefit of having the belay closer to the leader seemed outweighed by the hassle.

One of the funnest, steepest, most popular routes in the canyon.  I worked this several years ago on a bet...which I eventually won by redpointing the route.  Surprised myself that I could still do the moves, if not the whole route (yet).  Super clean falls on well tested bolts.  Clipping the bolt at the lip and pulling over on the slopers is the crux.  This route is way overchalked and needs a serious scrubbing!!!  Bring a brush and a squirt  bottle for when you're done!

Start in the corner underneath the Mass Wasting roof.  The climbing gets really easy on the ramp, but protection opportunities are rare, so don't pass any up (there are belay chains here if you have a 50 meter rope and can't reach the bottom).  Climb around the left (West) side of the Mass Wasting roof and pass a rusty pin.  This is where the fun of the route begins.  Wind your way up the steep section until you arrive under a small roof.  A thin finger-tip crack traverses up and to the right around the roof, providing an exposed, crux finish.  Good footwork and sequential hands are key to unlocking the crux.  Believe it or not, there are good stances for pro here.

This has been in existence since at least 2009 (but it's not in the Ruckmans' guide) and is as obscure as they get, but what the heck: If short quartzite roofs are your thing, but you want something a little easier than the

Skid Row Variation,

try this one. Two bolts protect the moves over a roof, followed by another bolt protecting a second (though smaller and easier) roof. Ten feet higher are two bolts rigged for lowering, or you can continue up either

Chorus Line

or

Choir Boy

. Grade is probably height-dependent, like most other S-Curve roofs.

This is a fun route that can be done as 1 or 2 pitches.  I'll describe as 2 pitches, but if you run it together just make sure to use some longer runners.  When approaching the lower wall, this is the 3rd bolted route encountered from the left.

P1) Steep pitch through 5 bolts which traverse up and right quite a bit.  Most of the bolts have been hammered for some reason.  After the fifth bolt, the climbing eases considerably up to a 2-bolt anchor.  Good warmup for the upper pitch! 5.9+

P2) From the anchors, this is the route that trends right.  Climb through 4 bolts which pull through 2 good sized roofs. 5.11a

Descent) 2 one-rope raps with a 50m.  I think a 60m rope might barely reach the ground from the top, but be careful.

The route is the second to last climb, going west to east, on the

Lower S-Curve

. Follow the steepest line of bolts just to the left of

Bourbon Street

and the right of

Skid Row

variation. Start by pulling a big roof on crimps, the crux for sure, then head to the right.  Continue to the right on good jugs and meet up with

Bourbon Street

after bolt 5. Take advantage of rest spots, it's pumpy.

This route is similar in nature to its neighbor, Melting Point 5.10b, but a little harder the whole way up.  Climb this as one or two pitches.  If doing it as two:

P1) Start on the 2nd bolted route from the left, just right of the huge roof.  The crux is the first few moves, and is somewhat height dependent.  If you can get established off the ground, the rest of the route eases up.  Pull a small roof at the 2nd bolt, then wander up easy terrain to the intermediate anchor. 5.10d  (4 bolts total)

P2) Trend left from the anchor.  Climb through 3 bolts with steep jug hauling, which finishes the overhang.  Finish by climbing up the top part of Melting Point through 2 pitons. 5.10a

Descent) 60m rope barely reaches the ground.  Otherwise, make 2 raps uing the intermediate anchor.

Just right of Red Light District.  This pumpy climb will tire you out quicker than you think.  It is very consistent, and doesn't allow much resting.  You might find a stance to rest just before the second roof (Between bolts 3 and 4).

About 50 feet above the obvious starting corner of

Tres Facile

, above and to the right of

Black Monday

, is a slightly overhanging headwall with two bolted lines. The route described here, called

Gas Chamber

by the FA, is the right-most. Start up

Tres Facile

(5.6 but readily 4th classable) until able to break left to two bolts marking a somewhat contrived line to the base of the overhanging headwall. Puzzle through the strenuous moves above, then cope with the likely pump to the anchors, passing three more bolts en route. The narrative for the route in the Ruckmans' guide has this as 11b/c (although their topo shows it as 11c, a time-honored tactic of guidebook authors reluctant to pin down a grade), but it seemed harder than

Cross Town

and

Mass Wasting

to me.

Second route as you arrive to the wall. Climbs just right of the huge roof.

Fun climb. Probably only a one star but I gave it two because it's long single pitch route. Tough start but eases up, then leads to another 5.10 move, eases again then the final crux before the chains. A lot of, almost too good, resting spots on this route.

This climb begins the same as Chorus Line, only it climbs the 1st bolted line after the rightward traverse.  Not a hard climb, just a bouldery beginning.

Just past Tres Facile, is a small roof that can be clipped and popped, easier than it seems, continue up the face traversing right until you reach the second line of bolts.  Go up these utilizing the angled holds, and enjoy the view.

This is the big prominent corner leading to and past the right side of the giant roof on Lower S Curve, left of the

Melting Point

bolt line.  Easy climbing up the corner ends at an obvious hand rail diagonalling right out of the corner.  This is the crux.  While the route is well-protected, be circumspect about how the rope runs, lest you end up with horrendous rope drag.  The hand rail turns into a small ledge which hooks up with the last 20 or so feet of

Melting Point

. Ruckmans' guide shows another finish, but I can't quite figure out where it is in conjunction with the line we did.

The last bolted line on the Lower Wall.  Steep and pumpy.  The holds don't seem to exist when you need them on this climb.

Fun, super steep route just left of Black Monday.  I might call this 11b/c, if Black Monday is the standard for 11a.  Crux sequence is not as obvious, but the holds are pretty good, if you choose the right ones!  Fall at the crux could produce a nasty swing into the ledge below, so make sure your belayer is on their toes!!

This climbs the indistinct, not too appealing buttress (hence the name:

Not Much

...to look at) that leads up and past the left side of the giant roof on Lower S Curve.  When the approach trail hits the base of the crag, look left and locate a 3-4 foot high solitary boulder out from the base.  The route begins another 15 feet to the left.  Climb up to a bulge, place a good microcam, then turn it to get on to the buttress proper above.  Wander more or less straight up lower angle rock that kicks back out near the left side of the giant roof. The last 30 or so feet is the best climbing on the route, somewhat steep as I recall but fairly benign.

A steep roof variation, not quite as hard as it looks.  The holds are there it is just a matter of getting set and making the move quickly.

Just right of the last large roof down low, is a crack that starts steep and eases up immediately.  Belay at the base of the next roof, utilizing the 1st bolt if you wish.  continue up the crack to the top of the wall.

Description

Protection

Routes in S-Curve - Lower