This route may be best done by setting up a toprope after climbing

Pelvic Floor

. The route is mostly relatively easy face climbing until the end when you have to make some sketchy stemming moves with the only the sub-tips corner crack to place pro in (TCU 0s and 00s or Z4 0s and 1s). Some larger pieces of pro can be placed at the the bottom of the route, and it is also possible to place cams in the Camalot #0.4 to #1 range behind the flake. The flake seems pretty fragile though, and care should be taken so that the gear will hold (obviously) and that the flake will not be damaged by the rope or the gear during a fall. I gave this route a PG-13 because of the possibly questionable pro though I don't think they are any truly unprotected moves.

Redneck Reach

Unknown Thin to OW Crack  1

Sandstone Entertainment

Ephin' Sweet (probable)

Unknown Crack

Pelvic Floor

Start off with #0.3 and 0.4 Camalots on slightly chossy rock. The crack then widens from #0.5 to #2 before the first offwidth section that takes #3s and 4s. The crack flares a bit, so this size can be placed well back in the crack. Use offwidth and face holds to gain the final ledge before the anchors. There's some bat poop in the crack near the base of the ledge, so choose your holds carefully (or just jam the bat poop). From the last ledge, protect with a #5 or 6 to reach the chossy anchor ledge. The mantel on the ledge can be protected with a #3 if you like. Despite some chossy rock, it's a fun route that gives the climber numerous options and can probably be done without any true offwidth moves if desired.

This is not 5.0, but MP does not allow for blank rating.

This a straight in crack. It is not 5.0, but MP does not allow for blank rating.

Eds. the consensus rating on this is screwed up by the 5.0 entry.  It appears this is in the 5.8-5.9 difficulty range based upon 2 entries.

This is a steep crack in light colored corner. Obviously, it is not 5.0, but MP won't allow a blank difficulty rating.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Bikini Buttress Area