Start on the staging platform up and left from the start of You're So Vain.  Move up and right between a couple plants on steep rock.  Gain a slab and step left to a crack in a very shallow right facing corner.  Move up increasingly steep rock using pockets on the left and crimps and liebacks on the right.  Make a thin committing move onto the bulge. Crimp and pinch and continue on mostly small but positive holds to a stance below the chains.

Evil Ways

Slow Ride

Purple Haze

Octopus's Garden

Goodbye Yellow Brick Road

Go Your Own Way

Shakin'

Heart of Gold

The Joker

It's So Easy

Orange Crush

You're So Vain

This is a proud line more or less up the center of the face.

P1 (5.11-):  Start on the left edge of a staging platform and work up featured rock through a couple bulges and a blank section before a good stance. Then continue up slabby rock to the anchor.  Clip the anchors and take a step right onto a small but comfortable stance.  A belay bolt for the 2nd pitch backs up the anchors.

P2 (5.10+): Move right to broad grassy ledge and start the second pitch in right facing corner.  Stem up and pull onto the vertical face using an assortment of protruding knobs.  Fun knobby facing climbing leads to the top with a thin move to gain the anchors.

Just left of the center of the wall is a body sized alcove about 30 feet up the rock.

P1 (5.10):  "Purple Haze" climbs straight up to the left side of the alcove.  Step right into the alcove for a rest but then continue up and out of the alcove on excellent stone staying just right of a grey water streak.  Continue to the anchors at the top of the grey water streak.

P2 (5.10):  Move up over easy stone to the grassy ledge and pull onto a steep face with abundant chert knobs.  Continue up as the knobs get smaller and fewer and do thin moves to gain the ledge near the top of the fin.  Move right to the anchors of "Goodbye Yellow Brick Road".

Start on a bushy slab and work up to a right facing corner on mostly brown/orange rock.  Continue up the corner and pull a bulge on nice grey rock with pockets and pinches.  Step left to the anchors.  Shares the anchor with "Orange Crush".

This route is a little dirty down low but will clean up with ascents.  The crux bulge is clean and on excellent grey rock.

An excellent route that starts and stays right of a prominent body-sized alcove about 30 feet off the ground.

Pitch 1 (5.10):  Climb straight up to right side of the alcove and work up and slightly right up a couple right diagonalling seams until you can move up and left to a nice stance and a belay.

Pitch 2 (5.11-):  From the belay scramble up easy terrain past a couple bolts to a grassy ledge below a double overhang.  Make a couple big moves to gain the vertical headwall.  Pull up on tiny orange knobs and dance your way up to a comfortable ledge and the anchors.

About 8' right and uphill of "Shakin'", climb up and slightly left towards discontinuous cracks and a couple brown/orange blobs of protruding rock.  Gain the right hand edge of the "Shakin'" ledge and continue up and right on a ramp to thin crack to flake and a belay at the top of the flake.

Starting about 10' right and uphill from "It's So Easy", climb more less straight up towards some large brown/orange blobs protruding from the rock.  Make some fun moves past the blobs to gain a ledge. Step left and clip a bolt and continue up grey, featured rock to gain a crack left of a bush. Pull the bulge and continue up to the anchors on amazing orange knobs.  Shares the top anchor with "You're So Vain".

It's possible to step left at the ledge to the anchors of "You're So Vain" and make this a 2 pitch climb.

On the right side of Rock of Ages are two routes that end on the same anchor. Heart of Gold is the right route. This a fun, moderate route but is still engaging and no give away. It is sustained for the grade and there are a number tricky moves.

On the right side of Rock of Ages are two routes that end on the same anchor.  The Joker is the left route and has a crux bulge about 20 feet off the deck.  The route remains high quality and fun climbing.  The final headwall is negotiated by pinching large to small chert knobs.

About 20 feet right and uphill of "You're So Vain", climb very featured rock past a couple bolts until you can pull left into a shallow left facing corner.  Continue up to a big comfy ledge and the belay anchors for "You're So Vain".  Rap or continue on the second pitch of "You're So Vain".

Work up featured rock staying just to the left of an orange streak of lichen.  At the last bolt step right and continue to the anchors.  Shares the anchors with "Octopus's Garden".

This rock is a little dusty through the orange lichen but will clean up nicely in time.

Start at the lowest point of left rib of Rock of Ages.

P1 (5.8):  Start o a slabby ramp with chert knobs down low and continue on excellent featured limestone to a pleasant ledge and a belay.

P2 (5.7):  Follow amazing large chert knobs, trending up and right to a belay just below the top of the ridge.  Shares the top anchor with "Shakin'".

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 06. Rock of Ages