The route up the Northwest Buttress is the type of climb where no two parties choose the same path.  Kelsey's guidebook reports variations between 5.4 and 5.6.  There are a couple enticing 5.8 options near the prow that are worthwhile.

Beware loose rock - wear a helmet!

Northwest Buttress

West-Northwest Face

With most of the good stuff on the higher pitches, be prepared to scramble a bit through the first half. Rope drag can be a pain as the first couple of pitches wind through various ledge systems until you reach double finger cracks about half way up. The line becomes more obvious and direct from here on out.

Mind the loose rocks and the vegetation. There's a real falling rock hazard to the belayer beneath the chimney sections. The belay requires a helmet. Keep your attachment point long enough you can steer clear of falling debris.

The whole thing can be done in 3 and a half pitches with two 60 meter ropes, running near full length.

Descent: Scramble down the westernmost south gully(4th class).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Elephant Head