On Sept. 12, 1981, I led the first pitch up a left-facing, moderate dihedral, while wearing hiking boots.  Steve Sarns clean-aided the second pitch, from a hanging belay, up a right-leaning, overhanging crack, which eventually turns the corner onto the vertical face.  Most of the pics taken by Steve's girlfriend Sarah were uselessly blurry.  I think this route could go free.

Another  SPlatte Special

5.10c/d Hands/Fist Crack, East side

5.8 Chimney - "Choss Garden"

This crack is possibly larger than hands/fist, more like an offwidth (see below). Please supply any more information you might have.

Per ??: I remember George and Ann telling me that this thing was pretty wide - more like offwidth than fist at the crux. I think they may have carried a couple of tubes on the FA.

Per

George Bracksieck

: To the right of the pictured wide crack, just right of the edge of this pic, is an overhanging splitter that diagonals up and right, continuing around the rounded buttress to the rim. On Sept 12. 1981, Steve Sarns led the overhanging splitter, using clean aid. I followed mostly free. Our splitter began fistish and narrowed before turning the corner, but no where on our climb was any wide gear necessary. I don't know which crack George and Anne climbed. If they used tubes, I suspect they did the crack in this photo and not the one Steve and I did.

This route is at 30 degrees North by compass bearing.  The route is on the northeast corner of the rock, a low angle chimney.  Pitch 1 (5.8) is 160.  Climb mossy cracks (reasonable protection) for 60 and then enter the main chimney.  A cam (#3 Camalot) in questionable rock protects 15 feet of crux chimneying, up to a chockstone and good protection.  Pass a second, larger chockstone on the left and scramble 30 feet up a very low angle chimney to a belay.  Unrope and walk back (south) through a corridor, turn left and tunnel 30 to the eastern edge of the rock.  Turn right and scramble (Class 4) up to a plateau where you can see the north and south summit blocks, and belay (long sling around a big knob).  For the final pitch (5.6 X, 60 long), climb down to the notch, step across and mantle onto a large, loose flake.  Carefully climb up over more loose flakes to the summit area.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Turret