Climb the first 2 bolts of Ride The Woody, then head left.  Follows the obvious spine of rock in the middle of the wall, with interesting pinches and pockets.  Finish at the Humboldt Current anchors.

The Mermaid

Shrapnel

Libet's Delay

Scared Straight

Shipwreck (aka Shitwreck)

Pulling Teeth

Scurvy

Poseidon's Fury

Humboldt Current

Tooth Decay

Megalodon

Blackbeard's Tears

Vista Del Norte

Great White Direct

Redwood Burl

Moonraker

Lost At Sea

Ride The Woody

Great White

Full Mast

Humboldt Current is the easiest route on the Main Wall. Positive, but gritty, pockets and incuts will take you past 5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. If the route has seen recent traffic it is less gritty and quite enjoyable. Best conditions are in the Fall.

Climb steeper terrain through three bolts on the left side of the arete, then move right around the arete and finish up the technical slab.  Crux is between 5th and 6th bolts, moving past small crimps and bad slopers.  Might be a little easier if you head left to the arete.

Climb to the third bolt of Pulling Teeth and fork left into another line of pockets. At the ramp, if you fork right, back into the anchor of Pulling Teeth, that is "Tooth Decay" FA: Eric Chemello. Tooth Decay was pretty much never repeated because it used one RB (removable bolt). I rebolted the line with titanium and added this direct finish called Libet's Delay.

Rest up on the ledge best you can then punch it to the top on a tough sloper rail. Hit a heel hook finish to clip the anchor. Many folks will appreciate using a clip-stick or stiffy draw to hang the draws before going for the send.

Libet's Delay is the delay between when your body receives a stimulus and when your brain acknowledges it. Once you try the crux, it'll all make sense, the move is so tenuous, you'll likely find yourself hanging on the rope before you realize you're off!

Great White's slightly harder sibling.  Crux is a big span going right past the 2nd bolt.  Stays on you as the wall steepens past the 4th bolt.  Needs traffic.  New titanium glue-in bolts.

Short and bouldery.  Crux is pulling past the 2nd bolt on some hidden sidepulls.  Not the best route, but maybe worth a lap before Lost At Sea.

Thin edges and small sidepulls to pockets up high. Crux pulling past the 4th bolt.

Sharp pockets and good edges for the most part.  Crux is pulling some long moves with bad feet between 3rd and 4th bolts, slightly right of the bolt line.

Steep arete to face on the far left side of the main wall.  The crux comes about halfway up, transitioning onto the face.

Halfway through the crux of Pulling Teeth, escape left into the leftward line of jug pockets and rails. This upper section was protected with one RB followed by a big runnout to the anchor of Pulling Teeth, but I've bolted it with titanium and got rid of the danger factor. The route was forgotten because of the need for an RB and the runout above, but it's now a real nice drop in grade from Pulling Teeth.

This line is EPIC. I have to give it my vote for the best bolted line on the North Coast. Before establishing this line, my vote went to Great White, well, this route climbs Great White, but then continues all the way to the top of the wall and finishes on the highest point of the Main Wall.

Begin this line with either Great White or Great White Direct. Great White is a hair easier, but requires more slings. Regardless of which start you choose, you'll have a good rest above the anchor. The route then continues through eight more bolts of insanely steep climbing, passing through two roofs. You'll find the crux at the second roof with a wild unwinding dyno. From there on, it's one more burly sequence then excellent laybacking. At the very end make a big throw left (away from the anchor) to a jug, then find a wonderful clipping jug at the highest point of stone on the Main Wall. Leaving a cheater sling on the anchor will only bring shame upon your family.

While rehearsing the dyno, you can haul up on a draw and pre-clip so you can start hucking it on-semi top rope. The true lead fall is wildly exciting. The key is a nice soft catch and some extra slack. With enough strategically placed slings, there is absolutely zero rope drag. So get some projecting buddies and pool your slings together.

The 1st route done on the cliff, an obvious stunning black crack surmounting a severely overhanging wave of stone.  Originally climbed on aid, this route was recently freed by Ethan Pringle and may be be one of the hardest traditional routes in California, if not the world.  As a free climb, Blackbeard's Tears logically breaks up into 3 sections.

P1: 5.10+, 40', gear to 3", new titanium glue-in anchors.  Crux comes pulling a small roof about 20' up.

P2: 5.13c (?), 80' (from the ground), gear to 3" (heavy on the small stuff), rap anchors that appear to be in decent condition.  The wall starts to steepen and the holds get thin...

P3: 5.14c (?), 120' (from the ground), anchors.  Mega-steep, with an apparent V11 bulge past the second anchors, and maybe a second, harder crux up higher.

Get some!!!

This is a new extension following the seam above Humboldt Current or the Mermaid. Its best to use several slings early on to minimize rope drag. Catch a great rest on the ledge, then set off with a few close bolts and an attentive belay to keep you safe above the ledge. None of the moves are particularly that hard up to the wedge, but they multiply enough that the repetitive big throws mean the pump at the end is real! The end is shockingly steep.

I aided it ground-up with crap gear and RBs to get the rope up. The crack was full of choss, dirt, and I pulled a fat block on my shoulder, then spent 11.5 hours over four days cleaning and prepping the line. It was a ton of work, but I think it turned out really well. Get on it!

Direct line heading straight up after the second bolt of Great White, skipping the left and rightward traverses, and linking back into Great White for the last four bolts. It adds an in an awesome crux with a throw from a mono. The route was originally done with three RB holes, which I replaced with titanium glue-ins. It was also originally named "Straight White" which was confusing with "Albino," which is the linkup between Scared Straight and Great White. Also, the name hasn't exactly aged well right now, so I just posted it as Great White Direct.

Ramp/dihedral and crack system that curves up to the right then back left.

Awesome overhanging arete with plenty of air! After the first two bolts shared with Shrapnel, hang a left into the overhaning arête with awesome meat hooks, pinches, reaches, and a few much needed pockets! Like Great White, none of the moves are particularly hard, but the pump builds.

Originally we were calling it a soft 12b, but after cleaning some more loose/sketchy holds, it got notably harder around the fourth bolt. Solid 12b now! Luckily the new sequence is really cool and actually pushes you out to the arete one bolt sooner (at the third bolt).

Once you unlock the perfect sequences, wow, it really flows!

Cool pockets and edges on a just under-vertical face.  Crux near the 5th bolt, making a long move past a small pocket and a bad crimp.

Ride The Woody is a fun, pumpy route with spectacular views of the Pacific Ocean. This route follows pockets and incuts up a steep, exposed, overhanging wall. No particular move is very hard, but hang out too long, and the pump can creep up on you.

Amazing climb that some say is the best 12b/c on the North Coast.

Awesome overhanging cranking. There's hardly an actual crux, just the ever growing pump from about 60 moderately tough moves. Going bolt to bolt doesn't feel too bad, but linking it all together requires good endurance. Lots of crimps as well as fantastic variety of movement.

The grade is just a guess for now. I re-did Redwood Burl a few days afterwards and personally think Full Mast is noticeably harder than Redwood Burl, but this might depend on your style of climbing. Vote on your grade please.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Main Wall