Krishna Orange is a surprisingly good climb, which is certainly better than it first appears. A wide variety of holds and techniques are required to get up this one, and the position and movement is really great.

Hop up onto the curiously shaped boulder at the base, and get atop that. Place a small and then a hand-sized cam, and pull into the sharply right-leaning crack to go out right around a corner to a good stance. Continue up cracks and flakes, rising up and right until the crack system ends, place a red Camalot on a long sling, and work right a full arm-span into a second crack system. This system is more vertical and is the one you can see standing at the base of the Berlin Wall. Jam and pull your way up this to a lieback section (very solid, protects well) and onward up more jams and flakes to the top. A final crux awaits just before the top. Save a red Alien or purple Camalot for that section, ~1-1.25". Build a gear belay up top.

One can scramble down (still on belay, I'd hope) to the arete on the end of this section of wall or over an edge to find a set of anchors to rap off of.  70' to the ledge or 100-110' to the lower trail area.

Krishna Orange

The Coug

Vishnu

Bobby's Wall

Black Pool Variation

Cesspool

Black Pool

Adam's Arete

Diving For Kipper Snacks

Higher Rites

Eat My Lichen

Full Circle

This spectacular route is between Prajna and Krishna Orange on the upper Krishna formation. The route can be seen from various places as one hikes up the Boulder Falls trail. Approach this route by ascending the gully up to The Berlin Wall. Then traverse across left to the base of an orange wall. Vishnu climbs the obvious sloping ramp system in the center of the wall, with hard moves near the top. A great route with a commanding position.

This is a long pitch (full 30 meters; 60-meter rope **mandatory** -- and tie a knot in the end) right of

Vishnu

, on the upper south face of Krishna Spire, next to Berlin Wall. Belay from the top of the gully between the two walls.

Scramble about 30 feet to a ledge below a small grey face. Clip two bolts here, step right, chase two bolts up the right side of a nice arete, then join the crack Krishna Orange for 20 feet (thin-fingers and hand-sized gear here; I used a Metolius #1 TCU and a gold Camalot, and believe you me, you do want the gear or it will be a huuuuge runout). Alternately, you could just start up on the big ledge, on Krishna Orange, and link into the last 5 bolts on The Coug; bring gear for the lower crack if you do so.

Step left again onto a small perch, and then climb five bolts up the obtuse, gently overhanging corner above, making long reaches to good holds. Finish on a clean slab with a great, commanding position and first-class views of Lower Dream Canyon. Congrats: you've now Slain the Coug.

This is located on the north face of Serenity Spire, down left, north of the Wall of Winter Warmth Massif. Hike along the bottom of the Wall of Winter Warmth, staying just above North Boulder Creek. Hike around the north end of the isolated spire and into the notch.  Climb up the middle section of the north face, right of

Adam's Arete

, via 9 bolts to a two bolt anchor.

Begin as for Black Pool, but move right to surmount the roof. Continue up the right-facing corner until it is possible to move left over the arete to join Black Pool.

Description from vainokodas.com; used with permission.

Climb the chimney to the right of '

Black Poo

l', and at its terminus, exit left to join up with the '

Black Pool

' variation above the roof.  This is pretty goofy and fun if you like mixed gear/bolts and cruiser chimneys.

Begin just right of a small waterfall, about 20 feet left of Helix and Diving For Kipper Snacks. Move up and right to a slanting roof. Move left around the roof and then follow thin cracks to the belay.

Description from vainokodas.com; used with permission.

Located on the north face of Serenity Spire, down left, north of the Wall of Winter Warmth Massif. Hike along the bottom of the Wall of Winter Warmth, staying just above North Boulder Creek, hike around the north end of the isolated spire and into the notch.  Climb the arete on the far left side of the north face via 5 bolts to a two bolt anchor.

This route is at the lower southwest corner of the Krishna formation, next to the creek. Start about 15 feet right of a very large detached block/pillar.

Climb a right-facing corner for about 30 feet, until you can step left to a short vertical crack. Follow the crack to the bottom of an arete. Climb the arete (11) past 3 bolts to a scoop. Pass two more bolts in the scoop to a two-bolt anchor. Lower down (caution - 90').

Description from vainokodas.com; used with permission.

This is sustained climbing up vertical wall. There are some moves in small cracks finishing at the top of the arete.

This is a surprisingly good climb with good rock. It needed a bit of cleaning and could use a little more, but overall it is in good shape. The splitter hand crack midway through was a pleasant surprise.

Climb up opposing features and up into a curving thin dihedral. A few nut or small cam placements about 5 meters up provide good protection for getting into the cracks and corners. Place a few pieces, then head right across a wide crack (6" pro optional) onto good face holds and another crack. Use this to get up into the corner and protect again, heading up to reach a surprising splitter handcrack (2.5"). Take this up to a roof, going right under a roof, protecting with smaller cams. Go up and right of the roof into another right-facing corner, reaching a ledge after about 100'. Nut placements abound throughout, mostly for larger stoppers.

Head back almost into the gully to build a belay with a long cordalete on a flake on the wall beside you plus a few cams in a crack.

Walk/scramble off as if descending from the Berlin Wall (5.0) to the S/SW to the base of the WWW at its left side.

Full Circle is located on the Krishna/Serenity Crag (around the corner and about 100 feet left of

Vishnu

). Scramble up to a ledge system above a narrow gully (200 feet above the creek). Climb straight-up 50 feet of moderate rock up to a massive triangular two-tiered roof. Pull through the roof (crux) via throws to a small edge and dish to good holds and the anchor above.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Krishna & Serenity Spire