An improbable-looking line that is quite a fun outing.

Good pockets and edges down low followed by a sudden dearth of human-usable holds after the fifth bolt.

Figure out how to get up past the seeming blankness and from thence past the sixth bolt. If you're still attached to the wall at this point fight the pump and head to the last bolt, and then up and slightly left to the chains.

Unknown Pleasures

Unknown 5.8

Unknown 5.11 Corner

Whip It

Monogoloid

Touch of Grey

Leapin' Lizards

Persona Non Grata

Unknown

Working in a Coal Mine

Shadowplay

Sharkfighter

Through Being Cool

Left of Oni -  First pitch is 11.  Do the extension for full value.  Super fun climbing!

Easy choss past a bolt to a ledge, then a steep & pocketed bulge which leads to a long beautiful face above. The face is varied and sustained with fantastic technical sequences.  Chains just right of a small tree.

This route starts on the right side of the upper tier at Unknown Pleasures. Begin up a juggy rightwards-traversing flake before heading left at the horizontal break. Continue upwards with a few tricky moves until you reach the anchor.

This route is a chossnanza but also has some pretty fun moves.

Begin up easy terrain to the chossy break and pull the roof with some big moves. Continue upwards and traverse left into the corner proper. Techy stemming will get you to the final slab and anchors.

This route is a little chossy (especially at the start) but has great movement and fun jams.

This fun route starts up the corner below the large ledge as for the obvious chimney. Once on the ledge, take the left bolt line and follow a series of positive pockets that culminate with a tricky slab move and rest. Continue to the cruxy roof and surmount it with style. Or don't.

70m rope required

Begin up the shallow dihedral to the left of the start for Whip it / Working in a Coal Mine. Once at the chossy break in the wall, decipher the cryptic pocketed crux (on good rock) aiming for the obvious hole above. Continue to the anchor with a techy finish.

This route is short but has excellent movement through the crux and is well worth doing.

A fine line on less-than-fine rock for part of the way, with stellar stone from about halfway on.

The line starts by curving to the left, apparently to avoid even poorer rock. At the third bolt the line heads more or less straight up for several bolts, but eventually trends back to the right. The whole line is a shallow C-shape.

There is a good rest on the route but you'll have to be willing to find it. Otherwise, the sections before and after the rest are fairly sustained, with only a few shake-outs here and there.

And just when you think you've got it made...the ending section appears. As the Ruckmans say "A little harder if you're shorter."

Note that since this description was originally entered this line may have become harder. See the comments.

A fun stemming route with a few liebacking moves thrown in, plus a hand jamb or two.

Start up some junky, broken rock (but easy climbing). The first bolt is high, but it's easy to get there. A bit of face climbing to and past the second bolt, and then the fun begins.

Stemming in the corner and liebacking plus stemming past two bulges make this an enjoyable outing.

Be solid at the grade. There are a couple of places you really don't want to fall.

An airy, enjoyable jaunt up a corner, with plenty of stemming plus a few liebacking moves.

Start up the broken, blocky rock at the base to a ledge. Clip the first bolt and head up and left to find the second bolt (on the protrusion to your left).

Surmount the protrusion and head up to get established in the corner. Fun stemming with an occasionally trick move or two leads to a slightly awkward bulge right before the chains.

There are several places near the beginning that are Do Not Fall Zones. So don't.

In corner on right side of North facing wall. Using pockets, edges, a dihedral and a flake to make your way up to a chimney up high. Exit dihedral on large chock stones to gain anchors on top of wall. Be comfortable inspecting rock while you climb. Corner funnels choss down to your belayer.

70 meter rope required

(However, it is possible to use 60 meter rope to lower most of the way and then walk off upper tier.)

A super classic route that deserves to be on the ol' MP. Climb relatively mellow juggy (5.11ish) terrain up to the small roof. Pull the roof and onto the clean slab above and climb it. Exciting and thoughtful sequences throughout on very nice black rock. Helpful to extend the 3rd bolt on the slab

(24-inch runner fixed as of 7/4/18)

unless you want to clip it at your feet. Lots of options after this and still engaging to the chains. Up there with the best in AF.

A well positioned technical and relentless route that will ram you in the gills with its continually bold climbing. This route feels "old school". By today's standards there are unnecessarily spaced out bolts, bad clipping stances, and even a few straight-up poor bolt placements. Even the anchor bolts are spaced too far apart from one another. With that said, if this route were to be re-engineered(and I would put it high on the re-engineer list!), It would easily warrant at least 3 of 4 stars. This level of sustained and balancey climbing on the sometimes strange (but solid) rock is a bit of a rarity in AF. The Ruckman AF guidebook has this rated at 12b overall with a 12a crux down low and a 12a crux up higher- expect both these sections to feel 12b, and the lower crux to feel harder(especially if you're a shorty). A sneaky hands-free rest in the middle barely keeps the grade at 12b, but hey, anything goes when you're fighting a shark! Oh yeah, at the finish of the route, summon your pre-historic power and fearlessly charge through the "dorsal fin" flake moves to the steeper headwall that is airy and awesome!

Slabby/blocky climbing up to break below choss band.  Crux is negotiating 5' tall terrible band of light gray rock follow by hard to see pockets.  Climbing eases considerably afterwards.

Climb that starts on the right of the ledge.  Just to the left of the 5.9 that goes up and right.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Unknown Pleasures