This is a right leaning finger traverse under a big roof.

The approach maybe scares most off. an awkward tree pulling, moss holds up dirty ledges to gain start.

Caucasian Corner

Existential Exit

Crack or Lieback

Ride of the Valkyries

Chow Time

Orange Mustard

Glass Eye

Staring at the Sun

Poison Ivy Crack

just another sucker on the vine

Harlequin

Black Power

Ordinary Crack

One Eye

Last Call

Late for Dinner

El Caliente

Steele Curtain

Ordinary Crack Varation

Most routes in Leavenworth are tough for the grade. This was listed as 5.9 in the book, but this one in my opinion is 5.8. Feel free to give me hell for this, curious what you think of it.

Very nice finger locks up double crack.

A steep finger crack leads to a short traverse to the right, ending in a corner hand crack.

This route's start can be wet. Follow bolts upward to a delicate, airy sequence. The fun is in the surprise, how about we don't spoil it?

The obvious roof crack in the large alcove. Originally put up by Hugh Herr in the 80's it is unclear how much traffic the route has seen since. The hardware has been updated as of September 2019 and the route got a good scrubbing at the same time.

A mildly run out direct line exists straight up to the crack that takes small cams and nuts. Alternatively follow the corner up to the roof and then traverse right until you reach the fixed pin.

This would be a 3 star route if not for the dirty loose blocky start. The upper half is a stellar hand crack.I don't think it had been climbed for a long time because I cleaned a dead tree out of the crack.

The crux is near the start, with some tricky pro, and opposition stemming to good cracks up higher.

There is no anchor on the Pedestal above, but you can climb the top of One Eye, also 10b through a roof to a good anchor

I am tempted to rate this route 5.9, this may be the most sandbagged 5.8 in Leavenworth, but in keeping with the guide book it will be a good challenge for the 5.8 leader.

I don't always tape up, but this is better with tape gloves.

Thin face/slab climb, not particularly memorable but worthwhile to mess around on TR after climbing Posion Ivy Crack.

Short but sweet left facing finger/layback.

An interesting route that is half way up the hill above Poison Ivy crack going toward Planet of the eights. Mostly  slab with a crux step over gap. 3 bolts on route with some cams along the way

there are two starts, left side is 10d, right is 10b, good cracks, and face climbing

Wet in the spring, dries out over the summer.

A neglected route that should be on any climbers tick list. Aside from the pin, all hardware was replaced April 2019.

An absolutely beautiful climb. Starts with steep jugs to a ledge rest. Fire into the crack above, clip the pin in the horizontal and commit to the boudery Crux on the steep aerete which lands you into another ledge. Clip the bolt and teeter your way up the slab finish.

An inviting hand crack (right of Existential Exit) ends below grassy ledges. It can get a bit waspy up there.

the bolted face is the crux, the upper trad portion is considered 10b

Goes to the same anchor as Late for Dinner, but finishes on the right side of the little buttress.

Can be wet and slimy in the upper crack.

This is a great route when it is dry.

This whole face can be very wet early season.

Fun moves heading up and trending rightwards via a series of discontinuing crack systems with an exciting leftward traverse into a 6' right-faciing corner before the finish. Like many routes at Purina, it's kind of a sand bag, but one of the best 5.7 trad lines in the Canyon.

Climb the crack left of Ordinary crack until you reach an obvious traverse right, continuing with the end of Ordinary Crack. Could use some cleaning.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Purina Crags