Start on the same jug as '

Aqua Huck

,' but move left to some left hand slopers and right hand crimps to a kind-of desperate move to a finishing jugs. Mantel over.

High Waters

Swamp Traverse

Bitch Strength

Dark Waters Traverse

Formula 500

Wet Carrot (aka Under Your Clings)

Arete

Formula 50

Than's Problem?

Flash Flood

Formula 50 Super Sit

Rain Drop

Red Makes Me Angry!

Green Herbs'n Sam

Deep Sea Angler

Light Waters

Dark Waters Stand

Dark Waters

Fluid Mechanic

Aqua Huck Direct

Aqua Huck

Infinity

Mobbin' Around

Break the Ice

Aquabats

Starts on a big flat hold on the far left side of the cave.  Same Finish as for

Dark Waters

.

Start as

Fluid Mechanic

and traverse all the way to the right side of the cave.

Start on the left crimp and right hand undercling ham hawk sloper, climb up into the top of

Mobbin Around

.

Start on the right side of the cave and traverse left to finish as Dark Waters.

Start the same as for

Formula 50

, but when you hit the jug, traverse left and finish as

Dark Waters

.

On the right side of the "

Dark Waters

" problem by about 6-8 feet there is a nice two handed under cling feature located close to the caves main right sided lip and an obvious break in the main roof section.

Start with both hands crimping the shallow under cling and step your Right foot up high into a nice heel-toe cam.  From here, bust up and right to a nice rail of jugs.  (Some use lower at your face level bump moves, these holds are optional.)

From the good rail located out and above the two handed under cling, start traverse right on powerful jugs and crimps until you reach the end of the caves logical and farthermost monster jug.  Finish by simply putting your feet back on the ground.

For some extra pump you can turn around and make a killer lip traverse all the way back to the left side of the cave finishing on "

Dark Waters

."  It's a real arm pumper, and if you're looking for some powerful training mileage, this is one of the many cool option to try at "The New River Wall" bouldering cave.

The original problem moving right combined with the traverse back left finishing on "

Dark Waters

" is probably about (V9-V10).  Maybe a little harder, but who cares, right...? This version is about the power pump.

Sit start with both hands on the slopey arete. Heel hook, move right and left hand up to crimps, and then go up to the jug on the arete. Match hands and tackle the easy but thought-provoking topout.

I thought I would add this just because nobody had. It is a good problem for those not quite strong enough for anything else on the boulder and is a good warm-up. Comments would be much appreciated to figure out the FA, name, and grade.

Start as for

Dark Waters Stand

right of

Fluid Mechanic

.  Right hand on a sidepull, left hand on an undercling.  Left foot is smearing under the roof, right heel is on an obvious heel hook.  Slap up, go right traversing to the end of the wall.

Start low on the right arete with your left hand on a non existent crimp/slopper and your right hand on a decent flat crimp. Bump past a wide pinch to a left hand crimp, and then move your right hand up to the corner and then work your way up left and over.

Another line in the Dark Waters Cave, this low start provides a difficult few moves into both

Formula 50

and

Dark Waters

, adding to the many possible link-ups in the cave.

Start sitting about 5 feet lower than the typical

Formula

/

DW

start, on a pair of jugs a foot off the ground. Make a move into an undercling, and reach way out to the jug where the normal problems start. Match hands while holding a violent swing right off the ground.

From here, you can finish via

Formula 50

(listed here and V12),

Dark Waters

(V13 from this start), or complete the endurance link and finish

Formula 500

(also V13 and 25 moves long).

Start on the jugs you finish on from

Formula 50

, and traverse low.

Start on a flat, low hold on

Mobbin Around

, but move left on to the arete.

Start left of

Fluid Mechanic

on two big holds.  Follow the line of crimps and sloping pinches just left of

Fluid Mechanics

up to the large sloper at the lip (the loose block out left is off and watch out for the swing on the sloper), but it doesn't end there. Continue left a few moves, then straight up and right for an awkward topout.

Start on the downstream side of the roof, two small underclings for the start in a crack, make a big move out left to the lip, then bump again to the flat jug, climb up and drop off or do the R rated top out.

Eds. this is the same as

Wet Carrot (aka Under Your Clings)

.

Light Waters is the rightmost line in the Dark Waters Cave. Start on a low sloping jug in the tan rock, and climb straight up on small but good crimps and sidepulls until reaching a right-trending crack system filled with jugs. From here, either continue up and right to a sketchy topout or drop off upon reaching the crack. As far as I know, the large obvious ramp is completely off unless you want to make the grade far easier.

Start to the right of

Fluid Mechanic

on a right hand sidepull, left hand is on an undercling.  Left foot is smearing, right foot is on an obvious heel hook.  Slap up, go left, and finish as

Fluid Mechanic

.

Dark Waters begins under the roof on underclings then pulls the lip and traverses left to a final jump move over dark water.

Do the first 2 moves of

Aqua Huck

, but then head right to a right hand crimp, load up, and jump your left hand to the peak of the boulder to a decent crimp. Holding the swing is quite hard and committing. This is an amazing line.

Start with you left hand in the large jug directly in the center of the boulder and your right hand in the right incut just to the right.  Figure out the bad feet and huck to a poor pinch with your right hand, then to the crimp with your left and up, to the mellow topout.

Start with both hands on a big, flat jug located on the far right side of the bouldering cave.  From here, heel hook your right foot on to the large, flat, starting hold.  Then, cross over your head with your right hand to a long flat edge.  Fire out left to gain a positive but sloping jug.  Adjust your feet.  Match hands and then toss left again to a super flat, in-cut jug that leads to the final right/left hand moves to jugs located in the middle of the cave and then step down.

This was one of the main warm-ups for "

Sonic Youth

" before the advent of the more modern bouldering lines that have since been developed.

For increasing fun and as another potential warm-up at this wall, repeat the beta as stated before only use the smaller crimps found just above the jug system.  This would be more like (V3/V4) I think?  Still, it's lots of fun!!

Great moves and a nice warm-up.  Steep climbing on big moves and holds!!!  A must do.

Start on flat, lowest start. Climb up and right on small edges and gastons.

Break the Ice starts in he same low sloping jug as for Light Waters. From here, follow the lip of the cave using sidepulls, undercling, and some bomber heel hooks. After some difficult bump-in moves, make a big move to the obvious, chalked sloper in the grey rock. Swing your feet over to set a great kneebar, and make one more hard move to a huge jug in the little dihedral. Now continue left on the high jugs until reaching a massive dinner plate jug. Either drop or continue left for a high and chossy topout. As far as I know, the ramp to the right of the start is off unless you want the grade to be far easier. All in all, this climb is a good testpiece for those who find

Dark Waters

too difficult, and this has amazing unique movement in its own right.

Climb through

Aqua Huck

up to the lip. Once at the lip, climb up and right to the high point of the boulder and top out there.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in New River Wall Bouldering