Cool looking route with some hard terrain.  Start on blocks to reach over a red-earth start to the good basalt. scramble left up a ramp to the base of a left-facing corner. A few moves gets you to the first of 3 fixed draws and the hard climbing starting on left side of arete which transitions to the right side through the crux sequence.   Keith was working on this route through the Summer, almost got it. He opened it for others to try until he gets on it again next Spring. Im guessing the FFA will come up with a name. 

Goodnight Moon

Tarantula Hawk

Cup of Gold

Sweet Thursday

Dubious Battle

Fear Corrupts

Dreadful Beauty

Timshel

Wayward Bus

Mice and Men

Tortilla Flat

The Pearl

Thou Mayest

No Sin No Virtue

Cannery Prow

Traipse of Wrath

Twist of Cain

Passport to Hell

Raising Cain

Nothing so Monstrous

Cold Summer

Steinbook

This wild line has several challenging sections. Starts up a steep corner, traverse left using generous underclings and ledges to a very good rest, fire up the overhanging dihedral to a mantle with airy finishing sequence back right using pinch blocks high and left that look suspect but are quite generous and solid enough.

 Danzig would be proud, so would James Hetfield.

Fantastic and hard movements. Start just right of the lowest recessed part of the cliff where you can access the basalt again. You may want to pre-hang the second couple clips from lowering off Tortilla Flat to the right. Easily clip the first bolt from the ground, move left on delicate and brittle ramp but with good basalt holds to clip second bolt. Look for good rock for feet and make easy moves up to a giant horizontal slot. From here, you are good to go!  Hard face moves lead you back right to a corner with a wide crack in it and easier terrain above. 

The most interesting route at this wall. It ascends the face just left of the upper dihedral for "Steinbook". Start in a short shallow corner that leads to a large ledge. Clip an easy second bolt, then head to a giant goblin block which easily gets you to the 3rd bolt. From the pockets just left from the horn of the goblin block, reach left for the 4th bolt and stand up to commit to the traverse stepping left into the corner with a seam that leads to steep headwall climbing up fun terrain and a final step right into a tips corner finish. 

Steep climbing up a shallow corner to a hard sequence through a roof, onto the face with compression moves up a pillar and some fun pocket pulling.

 Steinbeck wrote a sequel to Cannery Row released in 1954 called Sweet Thursday.

Great and challenging movement. Start by stepping up easy ledges to a high clip that protects a palm mantle move up into a corner. Ascend to a ledge where you can clip a bolt that gets you started in the harder climbing. Untangle a series of pockets that leads right up a subtle prow to a stance below a big move to a large horizontal and textured pocket. Move up from here and slightly right then at the last bolt head hard left to juggy finishing holds that clip the anchor.

From the quote by John Steinbeck.   "Power does not corrupt. Fear corrupts... perhaps the fear of a loss of power."

 A tricky start leads to nice holds through a steep dihedral. Hang on!

“There's more beauty in truth, even if it is dreadful beauty.”― John Steinbeck, East of EdenStart at base of "Sin/Virtue" but do an easy hand traverse left to the base of a steep corner where you can clip an easy bolt. Stand up and clip a high second bolt before you launch into the boulder problem. Boulderers might find this an easier onsite.

Thoughtful face climbing towards a roof, then head right to ledge just right and in the corner from a huge overhanging block affixed to cliff. Clip fixed draw out left but continue up corner. Be careful not to blow the last clip,  and the Anchors are also difficult to clip. 

fun steep moves to tricky headwall. Try it.

This is the quintessential warmup route for the crag. Look for the large prominent dihedral in the center of the main wall.

This is one of the easier 11's at the wall. It has some devious and fun movement, but not too hard. Climb easy terrain to an arete, mantle up to a steep bulge with another mantle over it into an upper corner with a  very thin crack.

This route has a little bit of everything. Steep movement with big reaches gets you onto a slab (from the ground, the slab looks like a ledge, but there is no ledge, just a steeply sloping ramp). Delicately traverse left across the slab to gain the upper face with powerful moves back right and to the anchors. Fear not the fall from the upper section; the route is steeper than it appears and the slab slopes away below the face, making contact during a fall unlikely. A large fall will clear the slab, and a tight belay at the crux is possible since the hard  moves are below the bolt. You will see what I mean when you get up there, its a bit of an optical illusion from the ground. This route is steep. 

Thoughtful face climbing towards a roof, then head right to ledge just right and in the corner from a huge overhanging block affixed to cliff. Clip fixed draw and climb hard left to set up for big move to large arete holds and a blocky ledge.

“There ain't no sin and there ain't no virtue. There's just stuff people do.” ― John Steinbeck, The Grapes of Wrath 

 Share start with Dreadful Beauty. But head up the face and slightly right through fun slightly steep terrain. 

Great and unique climbing up a very steep arete/prow. Lots of exposure, Challenge your mind! 

The nice face just right of the obvious Steinbook dihedral. Good sustained climbing with a variety of movements on edges and pockets. 

“My imagination will get me a passport to hell one day.” ― John Steinbeck, East of Eden 

 Steep fun corner climbing to a step right to another steep corner. 

The classic line at the crag. Very popular. Look for the obvious finger sized splitter crack up high on the wall after about the 6th bolt. 

layback very friendly crack moves to first bolt. step up to second bolt and then climb a corner to the left through some tricky movement. 

“What good is the warmth of summer, without the cold of winter to give it sweetness.” ― John Steinbeck, Travels with Charley: In Search of America 

 A variety of climbing on steeper terrain than it looks. A short dihedral leads to a steep block with a bolt up high. above this, step right and climb steep face a few moves, then back left to the finishing features to the anchor.

Use the crag cam on this one to optionally protect the 4th class terrain after the 2nd bolt. from the ledge, stem up the obvious dihedral system that seems to get trickier with every move upward.

This is a morning shade wall, great for warm season climbing. It faces northwest and does not see sun until after 3pm. The routes here combine face and some crack climbing, though none of the routes require gear other than clipping bolts as the cracks were either between large, solid, but hollow blocks or in short sections that didn't justify leaving that one bolt out. There are a couple routes that have an optional hand-sized piece such as the warmup "mice and Men" or the two lines that share the same start with "Steinbook" and "Traipse of Wrath". The crag cam is left in the rock below "Traipse of Wrath" , please replace it when you are done. ***Note that for much of this crag the routes require a step or two on the soft, red earth underlying the basalt plateau. This is unconsolidated sediment of the Santa Fe Formation and is not to be trusted to hold your weight. We have carefully places stepping rocks at locations to allow you to easily clip the first bolt, but please be careful treading on this formation as it will continue to degrade with time if it is abused and will affect the crag. Most routes have a low first bolt to make it easy to start the routes safely.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in East of Eden