Undercling/lieback the flake to a stance on the horn, load up some gear (pro to 2.5" works well) and then move up and left across the face to the first bolt (spicy if one considers the fragility of the flake). Continue up the slightly runout face passing one more bolt enroute to the anchors.

Overall the pro is good but spaced and a good outing for a competent leader. Three stars out of five.

Diamond Dogs

Zardoz

Uncertainty Principle

Guardian Angels

Bunnies

Lickety Dogs

Lickety Splits

Lenore Goldberg

Bong Along

Borat

No-Doz

Teen Steam

Barking Spiders

Start atop a big boulder about 15' right of

Lickety Splits

and climb up a steep face.  Up higher, stay on an independent line right of Lickety Splits and left of Diamond Dogs; this will give you another hard move before easy climbing to the anchor.

This is a fun top-rope well worth doing after Lickety Splits or Diamond Dogs.

Climb the low-angled, dished-out face passing a small roof (gear here) partway up the route and climb past one bolt to anchors. This route is quite run-out so best be solid at the grade if attempting to lead it.

A crux steep finger crack (crux) leads to a hand traverse.  Follow this to a tight chimney that leads to the top.  The moves are fun, but the climb is quite short.

This fun edgy face climb is hidden behind boulders on the southeast end of the East Wall, 100 feet to the south of Lickety Splits.  The climb is pleasantly sustained with the crux in the first 10 feet.

Originally a lead with three bolts, it was quickly chopped and has remained a toprope ever since.

Consensus is that it's too close to the neighboring routes to be anything but a toprope, but it does offer some good movement.

Climb up the inviting crack/flake to a point about halfway up the face where it ends, load up some gear, and then

run-it-out

all the way to bolted anchors.

Make sure you're solid at the grade because falling is probably best avoided on the upper section of this route. Two stars out of five.

This climb is around the corner to the right of Barking Spyders and has two bolts.  Walk up the ramp about 15 feet and hope that you're taller than 5'6.  If you're somewhere near that range you're going to need to take a leap up to the first jug, expose your back to the fall, and work your way up to a mantle to the first bolt.  Let the adrenaline calm down and walk up the rest of the 5.6 part of the route, meet at the top anchors of Barking Spyders/Bone Along.

Climb an easy but interesting slabby face to a bolt, make some thin moves just above it, and then continue to the top via thin cracks and friction.

This somewhat obscure route has some interesting history - the original bolt (since replaced) on this route was the first that a young Mike Paul drilled in Joshua Tree (the bolt hanger was made in his high school metal shop); he would go on to author many more new routes in Joshua Tree and throughout Southern California.

This is the slab just left of Zardoz and just right of the gully.

Climb the outer face of the butress to right of Team Steam with loose flakes on the left corner.

This route is directly across from Lenore Goldberg.  It starts out going up a ramp about 15' up, then after that you're in the business.  If you're tall, it looks like you can reach up and get right into the crack.  For my shorter kin, i couldn't tell you what to do, because i couldn't touch it.  The crack starts out thin and gets wide at the top, and is somewhat overhanging.  Looks like some liebacking, some jamming, hopefully someday i can figure it out.  All in all, looks good.

Start off about 20 feet to the right of Bone Along (the one one bolt route), go up the ramp and clip the first bolt about 15 feet up on the right side.  To be honest, the bolt is camouflaged pretty well and in the sun, i didn't see it until i was on top of it.  After that its smears and crimps to the next bolt, join the flared crack or don't and smear your way to the top.  Great climb.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in East Wall, North End (Diamond Dogs Area)