This exciting link-up takes on the cruxes of two 5-11 routes. Properly manage rope drag, or the last few clips will be difficult. Toprope to assess rope drag, or use long slings on most bolts. Climb through the Rise Up crux and after bolt 7 traverse left across the arete to finish on the last 5 bolts of Pressure Drop. 

Pressure Rise

Under Pressure

Pressure Drop

Hair Shirt

Hang Loose

Chaitanya

Foot Loose

Rise Up, Jay's Memorial Route

Ripple

Tete Gulley

No really, some of the best steep bolted rock in the Portland metro, similar to Wild Things at Madrone or Critical Mass at Broughton. The FFA stayed left of the last two bolts, avoiding the right arete and making crux moves on the left face to reach the anchor (11d). If you step right you avoid the crux and it's about 11c. Either way it's an intoxicating flurry of steep positive jugs. In keeping with the memorial theme of this wall, this route was put up with Jerry Dellorusso in mind. You were the first climber I ever met, I remember seeing your gear in the closet at college and you talking about this place called the Gunks and driving 95 to get there, and I didn't even know what climbing was back then. I didn't climb until later and we never climbed together, but in your final year you'd started climbing again and we were making plans to finally rope up. You left this place too soon but you left your mark on me and many. Love and miss you, I'm so glad I got to know you.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uw66FA6OTqA

Enjoy some of the best continuously steep bolted rock around Portland. Start up the Chaitanya crack, then clip the first of 5 bolts going straight up a seam in the middle of the overhung headwall. The lower crux on the first bolt is a stiff boulder problem to get established on the overhanging wall, then juggy liebacks and side pulls lead up the seam. A second crux towards the end will test your fitness, but the last few holds are excellent, so fight through the pump and clip those chains!

Hair Shirt is an ancient forgotten aid line that originally went at 5.9 A3+.  Under the moss that probably inspired the original name was hiding a beautiful face climb on nearly perfect rock.  Although the eye is caught by the striking seam, the route generally goes to the left.  Start as for Footloose, clip the first two bolts (2nd is now new and bomber) and then trend up and left on bolts.  Climb through a short but very, very cool section of 5.10 till you get set up under the bulge. Climb through the crux and then follow bolts up the wall.  The distance between the last bolt and the anchors is floating on the border of being run out, but the climbing is easy. (Hanging draws off the Footloose anchor is an excellent option if this route is at your leading level and you could TR as well).

Start up Foot Loose and climb to the third bolt. Depart from the chimney by ascending the right wall on good edges past 2 more bolts and towards the arete. Sorting out the finish is the business.

 After cleaning the route, one can rappel from the Foot Loose anchors.  

Fun route with varied moves, it follows a continuous crack line between the wall and the ramp.  Mostly 5.7 climbing with a few 5.8 moves. The basic route ends at Piton Ledge, left of the tree & huckleberry, with bolted anchors over a free-hanging rappel/lower.  You may wish to bring your follower up behind you.Sathe Extension 5.9+   You can skip the anchors at Piton Ledge and continue up the overhanging wide handcrack to another set of anchors.  Save a #3 for this finish.  This is an excellent section of crack for the Butte.This route's anchors were bolted on lead, from the ground.Chaitanya Sathe was a local climber and mountaineer who died while scrambling into the Lower Gorge at Smith Rock in the summer of 2019. This route is dedicated to his memory. He touched the lives of so many in his 35 years, may he live on through those who climb this route.  More about him can be read here, in his Mazamas Obituary:

mazamaobits.blogspot.com/20…

Looking for a classic chimney close to home? About 100 feet right (west) of the Rise Up Arete/Tete Gully routes is a clean prominent clean chimney starting 40 feet up. Steep blocky climbing above boulders - don't pass up gear opportunities - leads into the chimney. There are excellent face holds out right, but you'll have to wiggle left to place pro deep in the crack. Nuts work best. Exiting to the ledge out right and the anchor is the crux. An optional 4 inch cam protects the finish. Thanks to Josh Elliott for placing an anchor and uncovering this forgotten gem from the 80s.

A well protected route with distinct and memorable movement. The route shares the start with Tete Gulley and moves left over the steep arete after the shared 3rd bolt, and before the crack crux of Tete Gulley. After the steep arete, Rise Up generally follows the arete on right side with a variety of fun movement and committing moves.The route is a memorial tribute in honer of Jason Walston. Jay was a kind individual, generous friend to many, a beautiful human, father and my best friend since elementary school. Jay lived in Bend, Oregon and passed away on March 5th, 2021 at the age of 44. Jay touched the lives of many during his 44 years on earth, and his spirit will always be missed. It is my wish that Jay's passion to push himself mentally, rise up physically to a challenge, and send the gnar, live on through those who climb this route. Rise Up. J's Memorial Route.

This climb obviously is bolted left of the easiest climbing to avoid squeezing the Chaitanya crack. It's no classic and yes you will meander if you take the easiest path, but it offers fun and techy climbing as well as another lead route on the wall. You can also stay left of the bolts and lead it at 5.11 or so if you want. (I bolted it with that possibility in mind).Clip 2 bolts through a steep start, escape right into the corner briefly, then work back left to clip the hard-to see 3rd bolt (sorry) before continuing leftward on low angle wavy slabs. Tiptoe left onto the overhung face up top to make steep moves on great holds to punch out a sporty finish ending on the huge ledge. 

This sport route is the furthest left bolt line on the wall, starting about 30 feet left of Chaitanya. Trend up and left on good holds, then traverse hard left to stem across a corner. Catch a rest from the stem, then launch straight up a steep face. When possible, start slapping the right arete and fight the barn door effect. Eventually lean out left and work through the overhung slot using all kinds of tricks (crux). From the no-hands rest above the slot, an exposed and exciting finish leads to the piton ledge anchor. 

A sporty start up three bolts, then goes on gear once you hit the wide, left trending crack.  After pulling above it, move over into the corner and just head straight up to the anchors.  This route is dedicated to the memory of Tete Gulley, a black trans woman who was found hanging from a tree at Rocky Butte on May 27, 2019. The Portland Police ruled it a suicide, but there is significant evidence to warrant further investigation. More information about the murder can be found here: https://www.portlandmercury.com/blogtown/2019/06/10/26621949/a-black-queer-homeless-portlander-was-found-hanging-from-a-tree-police-say-its-suicide-her-family-disagreesAnd as of 2021 there is still a Change.org petition to reopen the case:  

change.org/p/portland-polic…

This is a long forgotten wall that, while featured in Pajunas & McGown's 1989 book, is all but a footnote in current guidebooks. Tall, solid rock makes it inviting for new new routes to be established and old lines to be resurrected.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in l. Wall of Shadows