Arete TR with 1 directional bolt on Arete

Utopia Railways

Hypnotoad

Another Day, Another Scorpion

Wasp in my Pocket

Trouble with Ducts

Acid Surgery

Tarantulas in My Crack

Twice Stung and Forever Shy

Follow the off-width crack to just below the bush, find some gear placements in the tiny horizontal crack prior to committing to step out left onto the face and finish using the diagonal rail to reach the TSAFS anchor. It is 5.6 if you don't finish on the face and just 4th class it around the bush to the top.

Climb the narrow, left most face with the perfect left hand jug at the start of the face proper.

Left-side crack is easy if you stay on the outside or harder if you get in it and pull yourself out of the awkward alcove.

Cool double pocket similar to bowling ball finger holes used to pass the 3rd bolt straight up for a few moves before moving left and finishing up and right on an exciting headwall.

The right bolt line which passes a 4 foot slash in the rock. Requires an attentive belay from a good belayer. Goes to the same anchor atop the cliff above the short headwall as Acid Surgery*

* From this belay stance, there's a scramble up to the climber’s right (west) that can be used to access routes on the upper face of the Main Wall or the top of routes on the lower portion of the Main Wall and the anchors/trees for the routes listed below.

Straight up over a small overlap/roof past four bolts to hit the arête. After the 4th bolt, head straight up to gain the arête and follow the arête past more one bolt to a bushy ledge 6 feet below the top of the formation. Above this 5 foot headwall there is two eyebolts for an anchor. Variation: after the 4th bolt head right to join “Trouble with Ducts” for the last two bolts of that route.

Right bolt line with a horizontal break between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Stay true to the bolts on the upper part.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Bug Wall