P1  Climb 40 ft up to a small overlap in the left center of the slab. Start moving up and right to a small bush (hidden yellow #2 Camalot crack) then up a shallow left facing flake near the right edge of the slab. Move up then right over the top of the tree island using the occasional tree for protection. Belay at a small pine tree with gear backup 40 feet below the obvious corner/overlap.  200 ft

5.5 PG 13

  P-2  Friction straight up to the right slanting corner crack, (the eye), good protection can be found in the crack as you move up and right.  Layback over a steep swell (crux , # four Camalot) and up the corner above another fifteen feet. Pull left over the corner 10 feet before its blocky end on big holds to a tree belay above. 5.6 80 ft

  P-3  Scramble up a low angle right facing corner to a second tree. Above the second tree climb a right curving groove to protection pockets at its top. Move left and up the clean white headwall above that is 30 feet left of the pocketed dike finish of Living the Dream. There are 2 hidden protection pockets (red Tri-cam or sideways nut) in the center of the headwall. Climb straight up the slab above to the highest Jack Pine the rope will reach. 200 ft 5.6 PG 13

  P-4 - Scramble to the top. 4th class. 

  Walk 30-40 feet back and right and you will cross the hiking trail. Turn right/ down, soon re-tracing your hike in., about 2.5 miles back to your car.

Wandering I

Carter Ledge Direct

Sachem

Living the Dream

Sachem- A paramount chief amoung the Algonquian tribes.   The name was chosen as a historical reference to the Indian Sachems that were known by settlers around the area.  Powerful Sachems included Chocorua, Pagus and Passaconaway, of which the nearby mountains are named after. 

  This route climbs the right side of the main slab through the obvious headwalls.  

  P1: start up the featured slab passing a couple small birch trees. Continue up the slab to the left arching corner. Get great gear and pull onto the headwall following a trail of pockets. Pull the crux rock over move onto a lower angle slab and continue up the a headwall with a horizontal crack. Traverse right and belay from the tree. 150' 5.7 R  

  P2: Pull through the headwall at the crack in front of the belay tree onto the low angle slab (crux). Traverse left passing an often wet crack to the far left of the second headwall. Pull into a left facing corner (second crux) and then trend up and right to a tree ledge with a boulder and belay. 5.9. 130'  

  P3: Continue up the brown water groove to the top of the cliff and trees above. 5.4 PG-13. 110'    Walk back and right to the hiking trail.  

  -additional description by Jonathan Garlough

Carter Ledge is the often looked at south facing low angled looking slab seen from Rt. 16 while driving North near Chocorua Lake.  Carter Ledge can be clearly seen looking east from the summit of Mt.Chocorua. This attractive cliff is located on the ridge leading to the Three Sisters peaks and has a hiking trail to its summit. This is an incredibility beautiful slab climb in a not too remote location with the spectacular backdrop of Mt. Chocorua over your left shoulder. The white granite is amazingly clean and solid with good natural protection where you need it.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Carter Ledge