This is the line I took on what I can only assume is the FA of the South Tower at Crystal Lake Crag. The rock is bad, worse than most CLC stuff, but it's cool if you solo it, since you won't be killing anyone but yourself if you bring stuff down.

I suggest TR soloing it, and the 'protection' section reflects the gear I used.

The route starts on the left side of the base of the tower. I went left onto the face where the rock got better, and then stemmed across the face onto a small hold (removed most of it). About 5.8-9ish there. Moved up and got under the FLAKE OF ETERNAL PERIL. Moved left and up the face next to it. Face steepens to headwall here. Moved right onto top of ramp (which is top of the FOEP), VERY CAREFULLY since there are some decent sized blocks just sitting in there. Careful moves up onto headwall, which then eases to low 5th class to anchor.

Walk off.

Flake of Eternal Peril

Electric Dylan

The One Armed Swordsman

Ace Dick

Rocktease

Look Sir, Droids!

Conveniently Sexy

Zatoichi At Large

Garbage Chute

The Tourist Route

The Leaper Route

Virgin Mary on a Schwinn

I'm Lichen This

Fingerbang

Arete of Regret

Jawa Sandcrawler

Waste of Time

Follow the crack up to a ledge, followed by an easy face to the top.

Descent: Walk/scramble down towards the gulley to the left of the route when facing it.

This route heads up an interesting crack with a short overhanging section, followed shortly by an offwidth section. Atop the crack, you hit a ledge, followed by a tenuous traverse to the right using a finger crack. This traverse would be routine if it weren't for the lichen, making smearing more challenging. A couple moves to a mantle and you're up. Please be careful as there is a lot of loose rock on the belay ledge.

The second pitch heads up easy ground above the belay. There is a large rock horn (6ft tall or so) on the climber's left that can be used as a rapp anchor. There is also a class 3-4 walkoff if you continue uphill and take one of the scree ramps down to the south. You could probably build an anchor at the top of pitch 1 to avoid pitch 2.

This route goes up a 5.7 crack with hand jams to a chickenwing, with an easy topout on a sloping ledge. The anchor I used was the small bush growing out of the wall on the right backed up by myself as a meat anchor. It might be wise to inspect the blocks on the left for safety, then possibly sling them for the anchor.

This is a good route for beginning trad leaders and mixed climbers, as there are several easy ledges to place gear from. This route is blocky and easy. Lichen makes smearing difficult. Once you figure out the simple sequence of moves, it's a very easy route.

This climb has some fun moves up to an easy stance with moderate moves above. Small loose rocks lie near the top, so be cautious. Once you lock down the sequence, it's easy.

One can walk up to the top via some class 3 rock on the far right.

This route starts on the left of Jawa Sandcrawler. Climb up the obvious edge on the left and over the bulge crux, then continue over the less-featured slab above. Lichen and odd holds make this fun, and the crux is fun. 5.7 or so if you stick to the fun sequence.

A fun fingers-hand crack that goes at around 5.7ish. One can also lieback some sections for a different feel. Climb up to the Oak tree ledge and use the tree as the anchor. Make sure your anchor takes the tree's health as well as rope-on-edge awareness into consideration.

This route heads up the arete to the left of Ace Dick. It is done as a toprope route off the anchor for Ace Dick. The moves are fun and a little tenuous on the lichen.

Go up the flake-ish thing on the right of Fingerbang. Lots of loose stuff in there so be nice to your belayer.

Easy on toprope, a bit disconcerting on lead.

This route is nothing special in and of itself. However, I have included it because it is the safest way to access the anchor for the routes on Choss Boss Crag.

The route starts up a couple moderate moves and then becomes incredibly easy for the rest of the way.

This is a strange, non-uniform crack with some funky moves. Head up the first bit (the crux) to an easy ledge stance, then up the remaining part of the crack, where the crack edges become quite sharp.

Small loose rocks lie near the top, so be cautious.

One can walk up to the top via some class 3 rock on the far right.

Note: This route was previously called "Call Your Doctor" until I talked with Keith about it and he filled me in on the name he gave it back in the day.

This route was done after Arete of Regret proved to be a bad lead climb. This route has easy moves with some nice exposure and a decent alpine feel. The rock is generally good. Nearer the top the feeling improves with better views and a dropoff to the left. The route is slightly runout but the climbing never desperate.

Starts off up fun moves with loose rock to the left. Easy interesting moves up and over two small ledges with loose rock on them. 60ft+/- length.

This is an excellent route that rewards those with good balance.

There is a certain series of moves that makes this route what it is. The route gets its name from a certain hold. If you go left, it's very easy.

This is a nice looking route from the ground. It would be great if the rock didn't turn to crap 3/4 of the way up. Thus, this route is best TR'ed from the same ol' anchor 'pocket' as the other routes on Choss Boss Crag.

The rock surface texture becomes sandy and will not hold pro higher up. A fall here would not be fun. It is still a nice little route with a good alpine feel to it for the area.

This route goes up and right on the lower central crag on Crystal Lake Crag. It's a very easy route up a lower-angle face with some odd features. The route to the left, "Look Sir, Droids!" is the star of the show. You can use this route to set up a toprope for that one.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Crystal Lake Crag