Being tall helps for the first move, good jugs out right. Watch out for some sandy holds right below big ledge underneath anchors of first pitch. 2nd pitch is the obvious dihedral up to anchors. It's tempting to traverse over and jump on

Sassafras

.

Dunn's Dihedral

Singapore Sling

Gymnastics

Sasafrass

Black Gash

Kathy's Corner

Aphrodite

Corky's Rumpet

Maria's Farewell

Outer Limits

Christine's Dream

Cig Arete

Gymnastics left variation

Aphrotittie

Half Hearted

This route attacks the prominent arete to the left of

Dunn's Dihedral

and

Sasafrass

. The crux is lower on the route with thoughtful and exposed climbing towards the top. It is a must do on First Buttress.

Start the same as for

Christine's

and

Corky's

. Work up on progressively harder climbing to the base of the big roof. From here,

Christine's

goes straight up more roofs and

Corkey's

traverses out left around the big nose. Singapore Sling takes the classic 5.10b undercling out the roof to the right. Traditionally a semi-hanging belay was set immediately after turning the roof. This is probably still a good idea not only to cut down on rope drag but also to keep a good eye on your second. Sinapore Sling is one of those 'intriguing' climbs where the roof goes down and around. Consequently the second gets a little dose of 'leading' while cleaning the gear. From the belay stance you could continue straight up the stellar 5.11 double cracks of

Half Hearted

. This is a steep and stiff pitch but ohh so good! Originally the route crosses over

Half Hearted

and takes the 1st crack to the right. this is a 10b/c flaring, slightly overhanging finger and hand crack with an 'interesting' slabby garden finish. If you go this way, and I heartily recommend it, you will certainly appreciate the reduced rope drag that the semi hanging belay provides.

Descent is by rap or 3rd class down the  5.5 practice chimney to the climbers right. It is also possible to scramble up and off the top and hike around the back side. Singapore Sling is one of my most fondly remembered climbs. Go do it, it will make you smile!

Start to the left of

Kathy's Corner

about 10 feet. Go through a small, awkward pod and stem up using small gear on the left side. Continue straight up at 5.10 or jam around the roof to a good stance. Then, shoot up the roof to 2 bolt anchors.

You'll find this gem of a splitter located high up on the left side of the first buttress on the north-facing wall of an obvious, right-facing corner. Scramble up to the base of the route and climb a weird move off the ground towards the corner. Climb 5.8 stemming/jamming to a sloping ledge. Continue on stellar face climbing until you are at the base of the splitter. Enjoy the rest! This route can also be split into two pitches by belaying at the sloping ledge.

Descent: Double rope rap off three cold shuts on the prow (Cigarette .11c) climber's left of the splitter.

Climb the obvious black streak.  Thoughtful climbing pulling the small bulge to an awkward offwidth style crack takes you to the anchor.

On the right side of the first buttress, almost to the end, is a beautiful, right-facing dihedral that starts about 30 feet from the ground.

Belay from a ledge you can scramble up to, then begin the perfect finger crack dihedral with good gear for about 20 feet.  Pull up and over to the left.  You'll be faced with a run-out face (15 feet??) which accepts small dicey gear.  I gave it an "s" only because of this part.  The gear is hard to make good.  Balance up to a weakness in the blocky roof.  If memory serves, it's not too hard from here with good, bigger gear (hand-sized)....

At the left edge of the First Buttress - just right of and uphill from the Left Hand Crack area is an obvious, right-facing, corner system with a short squeeze chimney in the middle.  This is Aphrodite.

Climb up the corner, squeeze through the short chimney, and then up a nice corner to the top.

This is the prominent, splitter crack just to the left of

Christine's Dream

. Start in the same flake and crack as for

Christine's

. Traverse left around the nose of rock at the narrow ledge on the left just below the first roof. This puts you at the base of the straight up crack. Originally, ascents of this route set up a semi-hanging belay at this point so the belayer could keep a close eye on the leader through the crux without rope drag from the traverse. Smart slinging and or double ropes might alleviate both the drag and the need for a mid point belay. Either way, the fun begins where the crack starts. A few body lengths of hard climbing on thin fingers tiny wires and obtuse stemming and the climbing begins to "ease" up. The crack continues to widen until the climber finds themselves worming up through an impressive, sideways, offwidth slot to top out. This is a really good route!

This is a wonderful line that can be done in two short pitches or one with a little rope drag. The route starts out with a stout, little, off width, bulgy roof then moves slightly left and up a sweet 5.9 finger crack. The crux of the route is the start of the dihedral. This was the traditional second pitch. It starts out steep and stiff for 15 feet then goes up a joyful dihedral to the top.

This is a serious route of thin crack and face up a beautiful face.

Located on the right side of the first buttress about 80 - 100 feet right of

Dunn's Dihedral

. Approach from the base trail up through the aspen trees to the start, you can't miss it. This aesthetic line ascends the prominent double-overhanging, left-facing, corner system through four roofs of increasing difficulty. This is a hard route that continues to challenge with progressively harder moves all the way to top. The top of the route overhangs the start by a good amount. Other than two old pins at the square cut roof, the gear is all trad and quite small at the crux which is a little run out but safe enough.

Descend by traversing the broken ledge system approximately 50 feet to the right until you can enter and descend a moderate chimney system that takes you back to the startof the route. An alternate choice would be to ascend one of the many fine second pitch routes above and walking off to the right.

Gymnastics left variation is pretty fun with a crux pulling roof, then it is easy to the anchors.

Aphrotittie is another mega classic on the Upper Wall! Originally this route traversed in from an intermediate anchor halfway up Aphrodite, along a sloping ledge. At some point, a direct start was added that offers a great, steep crux sequence. It felt like 11a to me....

Climb a steep slab to a bolt 15' up, and move through fun 5.10 to reach a big ramp. Place a small piece or run it out to reach the second bolt, then enjoy steep, exposed 5.11- face to a small ledge. Gingerly make some spooky moves to the next bolt, and then fire another crux, placing another piece before the next bolt. The climbing stays on you basically the whole way.

It would be easy to TR this after leading Aphrodite, Dunn's, Sassafras, or Cig Arete. IMO one of the best face climbs in the area.

If leading this only with draws, be solid at the grade and expect legit, but doable runouts- a single large nut placement takes the R out of the upper crux.

Half Hearted is a superb climb! It starts at the chimney to the right of

Christine's Dream

. Climb up and head straight to and through through the half-heart-shaped alcove formed on the left side crack. Turn the little bulgy overhang and carefully slab up to the top. The crux is stiff. It comes before the half-heart alcove and involves strenuous stemming on overhanging rock between the two cracks. Sitting in the half-heart and observing the world is a real treat.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Upper Wall