Steep climbing for the area. Many deep pockets and good edges make for fun climbing. Try not to burn too much rubber off the line, you'll need it to cross the finish.

Nova Super Sport

Se Camina Espanol

Stinkbug Cowgirl

No Mas Boot

Pencil Dick

Caliente

Violent Green Swallow

BeeWare!

New Safari

Slim Jim

Caballo Loco

Men In Funny Hats

Left Y Crack

Mojo

Chertin for Certain

Saddle Up

Mustang Sally

Kopytem Sem Kopytem Tam (Hoof here, Hoof there)

First half is 5.8, not-so-great.  Second half is committing, fun, and will put hair on your chest, be you a man or woman.

This route includes an obvious right facing dihedral.  It's easy to get off-route on this one; don't necessarily follow the path of least resistance.  Tons of friction on small jibs, sharp edges on holds.  Look around for the jugs, there are plenty.  Belayer beware: there is LOOSE ROCK as this route is pretty new (2/2/07).

A bit steeper than routes to the right, with 3 crux bits to keep it interesting.

No Mas Boot begins with twenty feet of less-than-vertical featured face protected by the odd, small weakness.  From here ascend a series of large, somewhat grungy pods.  Clip the lone bolt before face climbing to the anchors. 

  Personally I found the climbing enjoyable but the rock questionable for gear placements.  There were ample placements but I had trouble trusting them.

Long and sustained. Lots of variety, crimps, underclings, sidepulls, pinches, jugs, slopey stuff, little pockets, huge pockets, and one shaped like a big bull penis. This climb has it all. 

  There is a distinct crux near the top. I think it was between the last two bolts. Thin moves there. 

  A 60 meter barely reaches with rope stretch. I think My rope might be short for 60M though...

Thin face climbing that goes on and on with the exception of one little ledge with thin holds that make getting on it then moving right on it a bit awkward.

Pocket-pulling through the first few bolts leads to thoughtful moves on slightly smaller holds.  Venturing slightly to the left and right between clips keeps the route at grade.

The name says it all. There is a bee-hive in the first big hole (3rd bolt). This route should be very good once the bees are gone. If you do get on it, try to be quiet.

Can be done in 2 pitches, but since P1 is cruiser 5.8+ at best you better should do it in only 1.  Upper 1/3 is great climbing, but unfortunately doesn't last long enough.

A thought provoking route following a discontinuous crack for a little while. There are some spooky blocks up high. Interesting rock and impressive features.

The first pitch felt like harder 5.10.  It goes up a dihedral-like feature.  At the anchors, continue left.  (If you go right, you will be on Fuerte Vaquero and it looks a lot harder.)  The route gets steeper and there is a section of 3 or 4 bolts that is fairly sustained.  There is great climbing here with many pockets of various sizes.  This route can be climbed as two pitches or one long one.

Face climbing and one bulgy section. Wait for very cold (and preferably breezy) day due to bees on "Beeware" next door.

Follow a wavey, white streak up good rock with nice pods and edges. A very nice route, despite the blocks high on the route. I'm sure they're solid but they sound funky.

This route climbs better than it looks.  The gear placements are solid from good stances. 

  There are a few shrubs on or near the route for atmosphere.  Watch out for the shedding cholla to the left at the base.

Crazy holds! The crux on this route may be trying to decide which of the thousands of pebbles to choose from.

The first part of the route is moderate.  Once you get to the height of the bottom of the "saddle", it gets steeper and harder.  There is a sustained series 5.11 moves as the route moves around the saddle.  You better have tough tips because the rock gets rough on top.  My 57 meter rope barely reached the ground.

Outstanding rock quality and really fun climbing. This is definitely worth doing.

Varied climbing that starts in a short handcrack.    Engaging right to the final mantle onto a large ledge.     Somewhat wandering (hence the name)

The Mustang is a south facing limestone crag. Currently there are 27 routes from 5.8 to 5.12.   Most are sport, but 5 routes do require a light rack. Routes are from 90 to 200 feet long.  All routes can be climbed and rapped on a 60 meter rope.    Most routes are slightly off vertical with churt edges and occasional holes and pockets.    Almost a mile long with an average height of 200 feet the new route potential is enormous!!!      

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Routes in The Mustang