As you walk into Echo Cove from the parking lot, this climb lies on the steep dark face on your right. It is easily recognized by the large, brown, right-facing dihedral high on the rock.

The original (and best protected) line starts just left of Big Moe, then takes cracks/ramp up and left (5.7) to the base of the dihedral. The dihedral is fun laybacking and stemming (5.9) with good pro.

More direct (and difficult; 5.10 to 5.11) starts can be done to the left, though they are not well protected.

Boulder Dash

Big Moe

Undercover

Bigger Moe

Moetown

Big Easy

Larry (aka Out To Lunch)

Death On The Nile

Ground Up or Shut Up (aka Poppycock)

Fat Tuesday

Bucket Brigade

Curly

Deceptive Corner

Ocean of Night (aka Out to Grunge)

Little Moe

A surprisingly cool route with good moves in the upper and lower sections.  High crux on good rock.  Very cool movement and a safe climb.  Should get more traffic...

This excellent route is located on your right (south) as you walk into the Cove from the parking area. It takes a fairly direct line about 25 feet right of the large right-facing dihedral on the upper portion of the wall (

Boulder Dash

, 5.9*).

The climb name is "short" for big dynamo or "mo", the technique used by the first ascent party to solve the crux move down low. Though this move is now commonly done statically, shorter people often "pop" for the huge hand hold.

Great climbing from bottom to top on excellent rock.

A new(ish) route just right of

Death On The Nile

.  Two bolts gets you up the first half on a series of smallish holds.  From the shelf you can either go left and finish on

Death On The Nile

, or go right to the Deceptive part of

Deceptive Corner

.

Begin just right of Deceptive Corner. Climb up to an intermittent vertical crack (5.7), then move slightly right and climb up to a slightly overhanging section with 2 bolts. Powerful moves (crux, 5.12-) lead up to a horizontal crack (2-inch CD here), then move right and up a slim right-facing corner past another bolt (11a) to the top.

An alternate start (10a) is a few feet right- up to the bolt on Little Moe, then up and left to the headwall.

Start from the big ledge about 30 feet off the ground, just left of Ocean of Night. Climb the face about 10 feet right of Bucket Brigade, on slightly overhanging jugs, then move up and right on a lower-angled face to a headwall with a slightly overhanging left slanting crack (with a fixed pin) to finish.

Start up Curly to the horizontal break. Work left about 10 feet and clip a high bolt. Follow hollow and grainy flakes up the wall. Mostly positive holds with a few long reaches.

This route is between "Ocean of Night" and "Deceptive Corner". Climb to the bolt then swing out left and straight up. I've led this route twice, and it's a kick in the butt. It's tricky to place pro and somewhat runout. So,if you like a bit of a thrill, go for it.

Start from the big ledge about 30 feet off the ground, just left of Ocean of Night. Same start as Bucket Brigade, but immediately climb straight up to reach a right-slanting thin crack (thin pro) that leads to a slightly overhanging face and mantle (crux), finishing 10 feet left of Big Easy.

This route starts on the ledges to the left of "Ocean of Night". Climb the buckets then up the left leaning crack. Be aggressive at the start.

Fun little route a bit right of Big Moe, with the climbing being similar in nature to its popular neighbor.  Crux is moving left and setting up for a massive jug before the horizontal.  Pumpy movement through the top half isn't as obvious but the sequence goes via generally positive holds.

Start about thirty feet to the right of Death on the Nile (5.10a). Climb the left slanting crack to a ledge. You can belay here if you wish. Surmount the corner, and climb to the top. I've always found the crux to be the move at the top.

Start on a pumpy flake moving on to a nice resting ledge. The top half of the climb is a scary move over the crux to the single bolt followed by a thin finger crack to the finish.

Begin a few feet right of Moetown and climb a juggy face past a bolt  (10a) up to a horizontal crack. Just above this a bolt protects a few stout pulls on slightly overhanging rock (11a).

Description

Protection

Routes in Echo Cove - South Side