This fun little line sits just left of Metamuscle and has been mostly overlooked for a couple years. It's been cleaned up with a lower bolt and anchor chains added recently. It could still benefit from some brushing up high but climbs well enough now.  

  Start from below the first bolt to a big ledge. Clip a high bolt and crank through the tricky bulging crack to gain fun climbing through the middle section. Bust a few more tough moves at the small roof up high while moving into the dihedral to the top.

Pension Plan

Toothless Bastard

Metamuscle

Dementia

Extra Fiber

Fully Vested

The Stroke

Social Security

Free Bus Pass

Silverback

Wheel Chair Access

Life Alert

Senility

Golden Years

Depends

Out to Pasture

Fun short route coming out of the stash cave. Bottom reminds me of the Dungeon

Steep jugs to thin mid section to reachy overhanging finish. Fun climbing with a few dirty holds.

Starts in crack left of The Stroke. Fun crack climbing with a funky traverse in the middle leads to a cool final crux move.

Easy yet super confusing arête right of Metamuscle.

If you've climbed every other 5.10 in the neighborhood, here's something else to do. Shares the shared start with Wheel Chair Access and Social Security for the first two bolts. After the second bolt, move right on the ledge and clip a bolt. Move further right and clip the next bolt just below the bulge. Don't be leery about moving quite a ways right to keep the climbing reasonable--you may even end up stemming out right on the other side of the groove.Pull the bulge to a good ledge and then follow the corner to the anchors.

Strong start leads to a fun technical crux midway. From here the quality of rock unfortunately drops a notch.

Fun technical climbing and good quality stone.

Jugs lead to a dihedral shared with Depends, then head left at the horizontal break to a thin technical crux with slopers. Tricky.

First crux comes at small bulge then after a thin section you will encounter a reachy exit. Super fun and thought provoking.

This route shares the start with Social Security but takes the right line after the fourth bolt. 2nd route from right. If you excuse the chossy start you should gain good fun sustained climbing to the chains.

Hopefully at the modest grade of 5.10c, you won't find yourself saying, "I've fallen and I can't get up." Face climb past two bolts with brown hangers to a nice ledge and the third clip. Pull awkward moves over the bulge and climb easier terrain past a couple more bolts to the dihedral. Stem up the dihedral passing a fantastic hueco before busting out right to the anchors. 

  This obscure older route formerly had just five bolts with a grungy, kinda scary ramp start going up left then back right on a ledge to the very high first bolt. I added two bolts for a direct start up the face making it a much more enticing and enjoyable line.    I've given the route a name here since I've been unable to track down the history of the route. It's listed in the D. Jackson "Rock Climbing New Mexico" book as "Unknown. No topo. No Information." If you know who did the FA and/or an original name, holler at me.

The crux is on the steep lower section but sustained climbing gets you to the chains.

Pockets slopers and crimps on solid rock. The crux is getting to the fifth bolt and then you just have to hold on.

Jugs lead to a dihedral shared with Free Bus Pass. Head right at the horizontal break and up the arête and right to the anchors. Staying in the upper dihedral is easier, but harder to clip the bolts...there are holds on the right side of the arête that are not so easy to see..

Located right of the pine tree at the start of Wheel Chair Access and Social Security. Start in a obvious scoop/dihedral/alcove. A hard section in the first couple bolts leads to easier climbing above.

Very sunny area left of the Leaning Tower. Nice variety of sport routes 5.10 to 5.13.   All the routes in this area should be equipped with leaver biners (as well as the routes to the left) please do not take them.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Retirement Wall