Climb talus toward the obvious gully, which features a few boulder-type moves on quality rock. Above here the standard line makes a slightly dropping traverse right (north) before heading straight up. It is possible to go more or less straight up but this is all high angle talus where numerous accidents have occurred. Pick your line carefully.

SE Gully (Standard Route)

Mad Hatter's Tea Party

Pitch 1, Climb on the small fluted rock, following the grain of the fluting, either just left of where it makes an open book with the rock wall on the right (preferred) or on the small fluted rock about 20' to the left of that spot.The ledge before the belay ledge is full of cactus. Belay at the ledge above it. You will fully run out a 60 meter rope getting to the belay spot.

 Pitch 2, Go upward to a cliff face, then the left over blocky boulders and ledges to one of a few spots where you can more easily ascend between the gaps in the cliff face (crux 5.6 to 5.7), then left to a ledge on the skyline buttress. There is room here for three or four people.  To avoid severe rope drag, break this lead into two separate leads.

 Pitch 3, This is the fun pitch. In front of you is a textured rock zone that turns into a very wide (8'or so) very shallow chimney. Climb the textured back of the chimney exiting right about halfway up and continue upward among the giant mushroom shaped rock extrusions (chicken heads on steroids). Set belay in an alcove ledge. Only tricams work here in odd shaped pockets.  The alternative is to stay on the textured rock to the top.  I'ts easier and better protected and avoids the last pitch, but it's much less fun.

 Pitch 4, Continue up leftward on an easy partial pitch to the top.

 Descend on third class route on opposite side of the volcanic neck, being careful not to get off route. At one spot part way down it is difficult to tell whether to go left or right. Go right.

Cabezon Peak is a volcanic neck on BLM land.  It is in a desert environment.  There is a primitive camping area below the south side of the neck.  It is usually quiet except for weekends when people will climb a class 3 route to the top.  The rock quality can vary.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Cabezon Peak