A steep and varied line that tackles face, crack, and slab climbing. A sustained route,

Shadow of Doubt

makes for a nice, solid outing. Wild, exposed, and out there!

P1

: Climb a short, gear protected crack on the left side of the face to a ledge. Traverse right to a pin and fixed nut anchor.  (5.9) 40 feet. An alternate start tackles the direct and surprisingly difficult crack directly off the base ledge. (5.10+ PG-13) 40 feet.

P2

: A mixed pitch that ascends a technical and thin face past a handful of bolts to a stunning and widening crack. Aim right when the crack ends, build a belay on a suitable ledge. A powerful and sustained pitch. 5.11d (100 feet)

P3

: A mixed pitch that climbs a blunt arete to a small rest, then breaks up and left to a bolt at an exposed, steep, corner. Traverse left around the corner and follow bolts on a thin, crimpy slab. Finish at a two bolt, chain anchor. Committing and intense. 5.10c (70 feet)

Descent

: Make a two rope rappel directly down the face.

Shadow of Doubt

Nose Shadow

Made in the Shade

All Around Routine

Long Shadow

Licht and Schatten

Shadow of the Jihad

Absorption

A rad outing, up a proud feature. Be prepared for a plethora of climbing terrain and some memorable pitches on quality stone.

P1- Start up the right side of the middle of the Shadow Buttress. You will see bolts beginning about 15 off the deck, leading up a nice slab towards the huge grey roof above. 13 bolts to a nice anchor, 5.11 - techy, thin. ~100 feet

P2- A wild, exposed and pumpy pitch out the grey overhang. You will want either long slings or to skip some of the 19 bolts to avoid crippling rope drag. Super steep, super juggy for the most part. Book claims .12c, could be as easy as .12a (?) depending on your height and climbing preference. Airy!

P3- A hard boulder problem through a bulging crack system begins shortly after leaving the belay. Punchy crux to a wandering slab and finish with an easy wide crack to a mellow belay stance and a 3 bolt anchor. ~80 feet, .12c. ~7 bolts

P4- Wander up towards the final bulge on easy terrain. Boulder out the streaked bulge via a big move or two and some thin edges. A true boulder problem (probably honest v4 or so), to easier terrain. Another thin boulder (v2?) guards the top and a 2 bolt anchor! .12c, ~60 feet. ~7 bolts

Such a rad route! nice work! The first two pitches are well traveled but the last 2 are not. Many people rap after the first 2 pitches but it's worth the extra time to finish.

Walk off to the climbers right. Drink beer and toast to your success.

Begins on the left side of a ledge, approximately 10 meters up from the base of the Shadow buttress. 8 bolts to chains. Great climbing that is well protected.

5.14 has arrived at Ibex. I have NOT done this route, but am hoping, with its addition here, it will spark more interest in hard routes at Ibex and better beta will be added by those doing them. Huge Kudos to Kemple and Linder for putting up such a striking line on the right corner of the Shadow Buttress. This is apparently already on film and available for viewing from one of Mike Call's climbing DVDs....watch it!

Access to the line is by climbing past the first pitch of Absorption and belaying just above the prominent Mormon Tea bush. Then, for the business, cutting loose out left up the grey wall following bolts through the overhanging brown streaks.

Ascends Arete 100 feet right of Absorption. Mostly bolted 5.9 climbing with 5.12 (A0) cheatable crux near the top.

Light and Shade. Ascends the middle of the white slab.

P1: (5.11) slab climbing to a ledge through a well bolted face. Bolts.

P2: (5.10) Mostly jugs through crumbly rock. Lots of sandy handholds and footholds. Tread gingerly. Belay from small ledge below a few overlaps (hanging slabs). Bolts.

P3: (5.12+) Do a few moderate boulder problems through the roofs to a tricky traverse move to the arete. Finish on a spacious ledge. Bolts.

P4: (5.13a) Out right. Climb the incipient crack through a couple powerful boulder problems to a horizontal break with some sandy handholds. Big move to a jug and top out. A really great, bolt-protected line.

Appropriately named, Absorption starts sucking you in before you have raced across the hardpan. An easy approach lures you to its base.

P1: The rock quality is superb on the first pitch, as long as you don't venture into the salt crystals and mud deposits that reside on the left side of the dihedral. Although solid in many places, the occasional chunk of mud will dislodge when pulled on. Easy climbing builds your confidence and warms you up. Finger cracks and face moves take you higher up, where the absorption process becomes complete. Hands turn to fists as the crack begins to turn from an easy left to more vertical right. Throw in some roofs and chimneying and you are nearly enveloped. Release yourslef from the crack's grasp and escape to the ledge just underneath and left of a tiny pine growing out of the face.

P2: Climb/chimney upwards. You can back up the buttonhead with a cam placement behind you and keep moving upwards. Pass a two chain anchor (that's used for belaying the hard sport routes above you) and keep moving up the crack/face. You'll find a set of anchors relatively near the top of the crack for a belay.

P3: From here, move upwards generally following the crack and rounding out the roof. However (!), do not continue up the chimney/gully that cuts left (unless you are topping out). After the crack proper ends, you are apparently supposed to traverse way right to a belay on a ledge for Long Shadow.

Descent: 3 raps on Long Shadow. This can be done with a 70m rope with taking care on the final rappel.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Shadow Buttress