Climbs surprisingly differently to its companion route. Depending on how you do it this route can be a one move wonder. The best sitting position for the start of this route is probably on the rotting log. Start with hands on a good hold on the arete, get feet on the face and make either a long move or a couple short moves up to the point. Top out over the point. Do not use surrounding rocks for feet, do not use the left arete (until the top out because you have to grab over the point).

From East to West

Obelisk

Horseman

Pinchotchaun

Headless

Loftie Awkies

Holden Miup

Scarab

Warden Arete

From West to East

El Dabbo

Take a Stand

Dingbat Swing

Use the rock under the point of the climb to start. Start sitting using hands on the lowest part of the left arete just above the roof that holds Scarab and a heel hook. Lay back and follow holds on the left arete and a good sidepull to the point. Top out over the point. Avoid using holds on the right arete for the duration of the climb (until the top out because you have to grab over the point).

Start sitting (squatting if your butt doesn’t reach your pad) on a high right pinch and a low left pinch. Do compression moves up slopers/slimpers on the right arete and underclings on the left arete until you can get a position where you are able to reach over the top to flat holds (prominent flake that’s over the slopey lip) top out straight up scooting your way over the lip. Any surrounding rocks that are not attached are off (Including the rock that makes up the right side of the crack to the right of this face).

Start sitting with hands on the obvious flake. Go up through sidepulls to the top out.

A one move wonder route. Start matched on a deep staggered pocket on the leftmost end of the horizontal crack that goes the whole way up the boulder. Find feet and move up to a crimp. Stand up and top out. All of the surrounding detached blocks are off.

Start standing with hands on the obvious formation. Move up through a horizontal and good holds to the slopey top out.

A sharp awkward arete climb. Start sitting with left hand on a sidepull and right hand on a slim sidepull flake. You may have to uncover the foot ledge. Stand and get a right hand on a triangular feature. Choose any number of good holds on the left, find a good hold on the right and top out straight up the arete.

Start using the horizontal on the arete for hands with a distinctly shaped foot below in whatever position is most comfortable for you. Move up and right through a crimp/sidepull/pinch/sloper(options from bottom to top of the prominent left facing sidepull) and then left up to a sloping ledge. Do the crux press move to get good feet for the top-out just left of the top boulder in the boulder stack.

Start underneath the boulder under a wide roof, starting as far down as your wingspan allows. Make some compression moves straight through the cave and top out using a conveniently located horizontal. Detached Blocks are off for feet.

Start sitting at the arete using the small flake system on the left of the arete and an undercling on the right. Using cramped feet find a way to stand up and throw right, then on to a slopey topout

A variation of Take a Stand, start sitting with hands in the large horizontal crack just right of the arete. At the first crimp/sidepull go up and left and up through a crimp to 2 very large pockets. Go through the pockets and ledge above them, find the mondo meat hook jug over the top and left and top out. Try not to dab on the back wall. Note: For the sake of not dabbing it might be easier to only use one pocket for hands, and yes not dabbing is hard and is probably the crux of this route.

Start sitting with your choice of good holds at the bottom. Undercling and horizontal ledge are the major options. Find a way to stand and move through good holds to an easy topout.

Sit Start, Top Out Start with hands in the horizontal. Move out to a small crimp on the right side of the roof. Balance to bump the right hand up to the good square cut hold (use an undercling under the roof if you need to). Use holds over the top of the next roof to topout. There’s neat leg beta for this route. 

A small cluster of diabase boulders offering a handful of problems in a picturesque forest. The highest boulder is about 13 ft high, and the longest is just over 20 ft long. There is a variety of problems and styles from powerful one movers up to 20 ft+ long traverses.

Description

Location

Routes in Old Toboggan Boulders